Milwaukee Is Big on Boba Cafes
5 new ones in last year alone. Plus: Maria's Pizza to reopen, Christmas tree beer returns and Sherman Phoenix's new vendor.
Drinks from Tsaocaa, a recently-opened boba cafe and restaurant. Photo taken June 23, 2023 by Sophie Bolich.
Since its inception in the early 1980s, boba tea — or bubble tea — has become a giant in the fast-casual beverage scene. And the trend shows no sign of stopping.
In the past year alone, at least five new boba cafes have opened or applied to open in Milwaukee proper. That number is even larger throughout the greater Milwaukee area.
Boba has also expanded far beyond its function as an add-in to tea, with tapioca pearls, made from the starchy cassava root, popping up in ice cream, baked goods and more. The drink itself has also evolved, as creators experiment with adding various fruits, toppings and milks — including non-dairy options — to the tea base.
Today’s boba, in all of its wide-ranging glory, can be traced back to about 40 years ago, when the first — and most basic — tapioca and tea drinks began to emerge. That much is clear, though the beverage’s exact origin story is still hotly debated.
While there’s no doubt that boba’s roots lie in Taiwan, two separate tea makers in that country lay claim to the drink’s invention. Hanlin Tea Room’s Tu Tsung-ho reportedly created the first boba tea after inspiration struck at the market. But Liu Han-chieh, founder of Chun Shui Tang, is rumored to have prepared the first boba years earlier, intent on bringing tea-drinkers a unique experience.
The rivalry is ongoing, with no end in sight. But meanwhile, boba has taken hold across the globe — making its way into the U.S. via California and eventually finding its way to Milwaukee.
The trend has grown steadily throughout the past several years, with specialty cafes such as Bambu and SereniTea joining the scene. The latter has since expanded to a second location at Bayshore, with a third coming soon to Downer Avenue.
More recently the city — particularly the East Side — has seen a boom of new cafes including Elite Boba MKE, Tsaocaa and a soon-to-open cafe, Taichi Bubble Tea, as well as Vida Boba, a southside business.
A number of restaurants also feature boba on the menu. Mekong Cafe, Xankia, Rice N Roll Bistro, Maki Yaki and Make Waves at 3rd Street Market Hall, among others, all serve the sweet, iced beverage.
Beyond tea, boba is a key ingredient in a wide variety of desserts, particularly in Southeast Asia, though we’d be loathe to leave out grandma’s tapioca pudding. For example, Nab Vam, a hmong dessert, layers colorful tapioca pearls with sweet coconut syrup, cendol and other toppings such as basil seeds, water chestnuts and more.
The apparent tea takeover has led some to question whether the city is at saturation. If you ask me, the answer is no. There are always new and creative ways to reimagine the drink, and each cafe has its own interpretation, including influence from other cultures, that shines through. It’s also worth noting that coffee shops, of which the city has an innumerable amount, are rarely the subject of similar scrutiny.
For now, I look forward to many brown sugar boba milk teas in my future, and am intrigued to see the continued growth and evolution of boba throughout the city.
Mexican Restaurant Will Replace Tavern ‘Bar Rescue’ Once Tried To Save
A pair of experienced restaurateurs is planning to launch a new, seafood-focused restaurant on the South Side. El Paraíso Restaurant Bar, Spanish for paradise, is expected to open its doors at 4068 S. Howell Ave. in February.
And while Milwaukee isn’t exactly a coastal city, and our winters aren’t known for their mildness, the restaurant’s selection of fresh seafood, aguachiles and citrusy ceviche will provide a summery — if temporary — respite.
“We’re going to be focusing mainly on seafood,” said Ma Guadalupe Cabral Villarreal, who will co-own the restaurant with her son, Adolfo Pasillas.
The two have more than two decades of combined industry experience, having worked at various establishments in California and Milwaukee throughout the past years. They also co-own an existing Milwaukee restaurant, La Playa Mariscos y Bar, which opened last spring at 721 S. Cesar E Chavez Dr.
New Burger Restaurant Opens Near 76th and Florist
The second brick-and-mortar location for The Fatty Patty is officially open for business. Abdallah Ismail, owner of the fast-growing burger concept, held a grand opening for the new restaurant, 5908 N. 76th St., on Dec. 9.
Located within 76th Street Plaza, the new restaurant brings The Fatty Patty’s signature, double-stacked Zabiha halal burgers, gyros, fries and more to Milwaukee’s Northwest Side — a welcome development for neighbors who previously had to travel for their fix.
On the menu, guests can expect a lineup of the restaurant’s specialty handmade burgers, complete with creative and heavy-handed toppings. That includes the Fix Mix Burger, topped with crunchy fried onions, avocado, turkey bacon, ranch, American cheese and a fried egg; a doubly-meaty gyro burger featuring a beef patty, gyro meat, tzatziki sauce, lettuce, onion and tomato; and the Fire Ring Burger, with Swiss cheese, Sriracha mayo, jalapenos, lettuce and a crispy onion ring.
Vegan bean burgers, chicken sandwiches and gyros are also available, as well as sides such as fries (loaded or regular), onion rings, jalapeno poppers, cheese curds and mozzarella sticks.
The Edison Delights With Extra Thick Bacon
At The Edison, when you read the menu “bacon cut too thick,” you can believe it.
My brunch companions and I were delighted with every dish we ordered that included the memorable bacon. Not only was it cut thick, it was also crisp, but not crumbly crisp, says a bacon aficionada who is ridiculously fussy about said protein.
The Ricotta Scrambled Eggs had extra heft thanks to the ricotta, and the addition of home fries with truffle butter made this a unique brunch dish. The restaurant served the truffle butter on the side just in case you find the strong truffle flavor overpowers the crusty deep-fried potatoes. The stars on the plate were, again, two slabs of that thick-sliced bacon.
For the Crème Fraiche Pancakes, the chef set down a layer of lemon curd, then topped the curd with two pancakes, powdered sugar, and mixed berries. The pancakes were served with maple syrup, but that extra sweet gilded the lily. Sage-flavored sausage patties with caramelized onions balanced the sweet pancakes with their meaty salty porky flavor.
Loaded Fries Coming to Sherman Phoenix
Fully Loaded Fries, a popular Milwaukee food truck, is pulling up to a more permanent space at Sherman Phoenix Marketplace in the new year.
The business, established as a pop-up and mobile concept in 2021, will become a vendor at the marketplace, 3536 W. Fond du Lac Ave., with plans to open in January.
Eric Blue, owner and operator of Fully Loaded, announced the news in a social media post last week. Sherman Phoenix also shared an update, noting that the marketplace is “thrilled to welcome” the restaurant as its newest vendor.
The business currently operates out of The Neighborhood Kitchen, a shared commercial kitchen space located at 8103 W. Tower Ave. The 4,000-square-foot building is the home base for more than 40 small businesses, including some of the city’s most notable food trucks.
Vibe Lounge Avoids Suspension After Shooting
A Milwaukee tavern narrowly avoided a suspension on Tuesday, when Alderman Russell W. Stamper, II made a last-minute motion to nix his recommended punishment just before the Milwaukee Common Council was to vote on the matter.
Instead of a 10-day suspension, Vibe Lounge, 2579 N. Teutonia Ave., will serve none at all — nor will the business receive a warning letter.
The reversal occurred just a few weeks after the tavern’s annual license renewal hearing, during which members of the committee raised concerns over a shooting that took place at the tavern last March, injuring two.
According to a police report, officers were dispatched to the tavern just before midnight on March 17. Upon arrival, they observed numerous vehicles obstructing the roadway and people running from the building. A security guard at the front door told officers that he heard gunfire outside, but did not know who was shooting and did not hear any gunfire inside.
Mexican Restaurant Damaged in Fire
Judy’s on North will be closed until further notice following an overnight fire that took place inside the Mexican restaurant, 2207 E. North Ave., earlier this week.
Nobody was injured in the blaze, which ignited in the kitchen at just before 4 a.m. on Tuesday morning, according to a report from TMJ4. At this time, the cause of the fire is unknown and remains under investigation.
Judy’s posted an update to social media on Tuesday. “It saddens us to say there was a fire early this morning at Judy’s, but we are thankful that no one was hurt or even present at the time,” the restaurant wrote in a Facebook post.
“We will be closed today and until further notice. We will be sure to keep you posted as we navigate through this. Our guest[s] mean everything to us and we thank you right now for continued support.”
Introducing Panther Pale Ale
Pilot Project Brewing is going to college. The year-old Milwaukee brewery is partnering with the UW-Milwaukee Athletics Department to produce a new beer, Panther Pale Ale.
The collaborative brew, an American-style pale ale, will make its debut on Wednesday, Dec. 13 at the UW-Milwaukee Panther Arena, 400 W. Kilbourn Ave., in conjunction with the men’s basketball home game. After that, the beer will be available for purchase from participating bars, restaurants and retail stores.
Additional contributors to the project include Craft Beverage Warehouse, the Collegiate Licensing Company (CLC) and UWM’s Peck School of the Arts, whose students helped design the beer’s sleek, black and orange packaging.
“Milwaukee Athletics is pleased to support this cross-campus collaboration, highlighted by an opportunity for UWM students to obtain real-world experience, further enhancing the classroom instruction,” said Amanda Braun, UWM’s director of athletics, in a statement. “This project’s success is the result of the work of many, including proud Panther alumni and our partners within the business community. We are excited to showcase the Milwaukee Panthers’ brand throughout greater Milwaukee.”
Maria’s Pizza To Return Under New Owners
After a year-and-a-half hiatus, Maria’s Pizza is preparing to resume service on the South Side. The restaurant, 5025 W. Forest Home Ave., now under new ownership, could reopen as soon as January 2024, according to a license application.
For loyal fans — of which Maria’s Pizza has many — the big day can’t come soon enough. On June 26, 2022, the restaurant’s closing date, hundreds of customers waited in an hours-long line for a final slice of the restaurant’s signature cracker crust pizza. In the 18 months since, dozens have questioned the status of Maria’s and sought details about its return.
Now, the wait is almost over. Area tavern owners Brian and Jennifer Francis paid $300,000 for the business earlier this year, according to the license application. They plan to continue operating the beloved restaurant as-is, with just one new addition: a liquor license.
The couple, who also own Mulligan’s Irish Pub & Grill in Franklin, aim to reopen the restaurant on Jan. 1, or as soon as the licensing process is complete.
Engine Company No. 3 To End Brunches
Engine Company No. 3 will host its final brunch service on Dec. 31, after nearly a decade in the Walker’s Point neighborhood. Starting in 2024, the restaurant will transition into a special events venue.
“After nine great years and an amazing journey, we are sad to say goodbye to our brunch service at Engine Company No. 3, but happy to say hello to an event only space,” owners Peter and Sonia Sandroni wrote in a Friday evening social media post. “We have decided that it is time for us to take a step back and spend more time as a family as we continue our own path.”
The Sandronis opened Engine Company No. 3 in 2014, bringing new life to a vacant firehouse at 217 W. National Ave. Driven by a passion for global flavors, but influenced by their commitment to local foods, the couple crafted a menu of tapas-style international dishes, all with an emphasis on farm-to-table ingredients.
That includes eggs — up to 150 dozen per week — specially sourced from 3 Brothers Farm in Oconomowoc. Whether nestled into spiced tomato sauce as in the Tunisian shakshouka, fried until crisp and served atop Spanish patatas bravas or whipped into a French quiche florentine, the farm-fresh eggs played an integral role in the brunch restaurant’s menu.
The Return of Black Husky’s Christmas Tree Spruce Beer
It’s been a contentious week for Christmas trees, what with the Department of Public Works‘ Dec. 4 announcement that the city will no longer pick up discarded Christmas trees curbside. The news generated a storm of negative reactions, stirred up talk about illegal dumping and even led to the creation of a new business before the city reversed its decision Monday morning.
Milwaukee residents have their solution, at least for this holiday season, but what’s the fate of the city’s Christmas tree? It’ll be turned into beer, of course.
Well, at least partly. Black Husky Brewing, in partnership with DPW’s Forestry Services Division, has created its fourth annual batch of Milwaukee Christmas Tree Sproose beer. The double IPA is brewed with boughs that were trimmed during the harvesting of this year’s tree, a 38-foot Colorado Blue Spruce.
The flavor of this year’s beer is not-so-subtle, according to Black Husky owner Tim Eichinger. But that was never the intention. According to the brewery’s website, “this aggressive double IPA won’t leave you wondering if you caught a whiff of pine; rather you’ll know you bulldozed through the forest and came out on the other side – the dark side – the Black Husky side.”
New Korean-Chinese Restaurant For Third Ward
Jongsoo Kim, the prolific restaurateur behind some of Milwaukee’s most notable Asian eateries, is planning to expand his portfolio with a new restaurant in the Historic Third Ward.
Sinabro, serving Chinese and Korean food, is expected to make its debut in mid-February at 316 N. Milwaukee St., the former site of Fool’s Errand. The large restaurant space, housed within the Landmark Building, has been vacant since July 2022.
Kim, a Milwaukee industry veteran, is known for his leadership at Char’d, a modern Korean restaurant, Kanpai Izakaya, a sushi restaurant and Maru, a Korean-style bistro. He also helped open Merge, an East Side destination for Korean fried chicken wings. He will co-own Sinabro with Haneul Kim.
The upcoming restaurant will occupy 4,200 square feet within the building, with plans to offer on-site seating as well as a full bar. According to a license application, the restaurant expects to generate the majority of its revenue, or 90%, from food sales, with the remaining 10% coming from alcohol sales.
Ninja MKE Steakhouse Is Closed
Ninja MKE, a Japanese restaurant in the East Town neighborhood, which offered sushi, hibachi, private karaoke and more, has closed.
The restaurant, first proposed in 2019, was years in the making — slowly taking shape at 770 N. Milwaukee St. until its official opening last February. The ambitious project was the work of Li Chai Chen, an established restaurateur who also owns Ninja restaurants in West Bend and Menomonee Falls.
The Milwaukee restaurant closed its doors in November, according to Chen, who told Urban Milwaukee that he was unable to hire sufficient staff to keep the business running — a quandary that has plagued small business owners since the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, and is often cited as the principal reason for restaurant closures.
Despite the setback, Chen remains positive, and said he is going to try again in the new year. This time, he plans to open a Korean barbeque restaurant in the same spot.
3rd Street Market Hall Unveils New Event Space
3rd Street Market Hall, on Wednesday, announced the upcoming opening of its new event space, Venue 3. The grand reveal will coincide with a New Year’s Eve party, offering guests a first look at the space.
The ticketed event will take place on Sunday, Dec. 31 from 8:80 p.m. to 12:30 a.m., featuring live entertainment and three different food and drink packages to choose from.
Options include the bronze package, priced at $35, which comes with two drink tickets good for soda, beer, wine and cocktails.
The silver package, priced at $70, provides access to four hours of unlimited beer, wine and soda, a grazing table courtesy of Charcute-Louie, dinner from Smokin’ Jack’s BBQ and dessert from Mr. Dye’s Pies.
The Pasta Tree Adds Brunch Service
The Pasta Tree, a fixture of the Lower East Side neighborhood, has been a destination for lunch and dinner for more than 40 years. Last month, the restaurant expanded its reach to the morning crowd, debuting a new, Italian-inspired brunch menu.
The brunch, available on Sundays from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., features Italian twists on classic dishes such as Scottish eggs, eggs benedict and baked eggs. Other options include an antipasto plate with various salamis, cheeses and vegetables; breakfast carbonara featuring handmade pasta and a poached egg; zeppole (Italian doughnut holes) served with crushed pistachios and dipping sauces; caramelized apple pancakes and a seafood frittata.
For dessert, there’s cheesecake, gluten-free chocolate cake, tiramisu, seasonal cannolis and affogatos.
The restaurant also offers a substantial cocktail menu, complete with a housemade, Italian-style bloody mary, espresso martini, cold brew negroni, bottomless bellinis and more.
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