Milwaukee Dining Scene Wins High Praise
With months of accolades and awards. Plus: Who will replace Tonic Tavern, Riverfront Pizza and Kehr's downtown candy store?
Royal eggs from Heirloom MKE. Photo by Sophie Bolich.
Milwaukee’s dining scene is riding high after months of accolades, awards and opportunities stemming from some of the most influential voices in the culinary world.
Typically known for its beer, cheese and custard, the city had a chance to show off all of the above, as well as more refined dining options — and some local talent — as a filming site for the upcoming season of Bravo’s ‘Top Chef,” which is set to premiere in March.
In January, a handful of Milwaukee chefs and restaurants found themselves on the list of semifinalists for this year’s James Beard Awards. Some, including Dan Jacobs and Dan Van Rite, are making the awards an annual tradition. The chefs, who operate DanDan and EsterEv, are now six-time semi-finalists.
Milwaukee scored yet another win when Odd Duck received major kudos from USA Today, which named the restaurant among 46 others on its 2024 Restaurants of the Year list.
Just last week, Eater listed the Milwaukee among 11 other locations as a top dining destination for 2024. The food-focused publication reported that in late 2023, when readers were asked which great dining scene in the United States deserved a spot, “the answer, resoundingly, was Milwaukee. The city was also featured in 2020, but the achievement was quickly soured by the onset of the pandemic.
In a separate article, the food-focused publication highlighted 38 “essential” restaurants in the Milwaukee area, naming The Vanguard, Buckley’s Restaurant & Bar, Alem Ethiopian Village and others among the bunch.
The influx of accolades may feel like old news to locals who have been immersed in the vibrant and varied dining scene for years. But even for those who are well-aware of the city’s strengths, it sure feels good to be recognized.
Amid increased attention for its talented chefs, innovative restaurants and all-around spectacular food, Milwaukee is still holding on to its underdog identity. It’s what keeps us hustling in this Rust Belt city with a proud, blue-collar history.
So sure, there may be a chip on our collective shoulder, but there’s plenty of beer cheese to go along with it — and we’re more than happy to share.
Tonic Tavern Regular Hopes To Open New Bar In Its Place
For as long as The Tonic Tavern has been a fixture of the Bay View neighborhood, David Schrank has been a fixture of The Tonic Tavern.
An industry veteran and Bay View resident since 2005, Schrank has frequented the bar for all 15 years of its existence, even going as far as to call it his “home away from home.”
“It had this feeling of community there that just — I felt drawn to that,” he said. “They embrace everybody there and there was never any kind of judgements. Everybody was welcome.”
Last week, Tonic owner Paul Jonas announced that he would close the tavern at the end of the month. With last call less than a week away, Schrank is already laying plans for the future.
Milwaukee Public Market Announces What Will Replace Kehr’s
Earlier this week, Urban Milwaukee reported that Kehr’s Candies will exit Milwaukee Public Market at the end of the month. The announcement was met with dismay from fans of the longtime candy shop; however, a new development may help to sugarcoat the news.
Freese’s Candy Shoppe is slated to open in the former Kehr’s Candies space, offering handmade chocolates, roasted nuts and other signature products, the market, 400 N. Water St., announced in a news release Thursday afternoon.
Wendy Matel, co-owner of the West Allis-based candy store, said that she is looking forward to expanding with a second location in Milwaukee.
“This is the start of an exciting new chapter for our family and the Freese’s business,” Matel said in a statement. “We take great pride in our handmade products, and our roots in the candy making industry go back nearly a century. We’re thrilled to have our offerings included alongside the impressive lineup of vendors at the bustling Milwaukee Public Market.”
Central Standard and Leinenkugel’s Launching Ready-To-Drink Cocktail
Central Standard Craft Distillery and Jacob Leinenkugel Brewing Company are teaming up to bring a hyper-local version of Wisconsin’s favorite cocktail to drinkers across the state — no muddler required.
The beverage companies recently announced their collaboration on a ready-to-drink Brandy Old Fashioned. The canned cocktail combines North Brandy from Central Standard with fruit flavors from Leinenkugel’s beers.
Weighing in at 8% ABV and enhanced with notes of cherry, cranberry and orange, the drink was designed to offer a “true taste of home,” said Evan Hughes, co-founder of Central Standard, in a statement.
Hughes is excited to be working with the long-running brewery. “The brandy old fashioned is at the heart of our story, and introducing a product with a local legend like Leinenkugel’s, a decade into our journey, adds an extra layer of significance to that story and the work we’re devoted to doing locally.”
New Plan Would Save Former Acapulco Restaurant Building
A long-vacant Walker’s Point building, of which many Milwaukeeans of a certain age have fond, but hazy memories, would see new life under a proposal from Willie Smith.
Smith plans to renovate the three-story building long associated with Acapulco restaurant at 600-608 W. National Ave. The historic brick structure would receive a new first-floor restaurant and two apartments upstairs.
A state grant and historic preservation tax credits would bolster the $2 million project.
“The Acapulco was a mainstay of the Walker’s Point social scene from when it opened in the 1970s until its closure in 2007,” said Department of City Development commercial corridor manager Matt Rejc.
Bay View Gastropub Will Become Peruvian Restaurant
After just under three years of service, Blackwood Brothers Restaurant and Social Club will take on a new form. The bar and restaurant, 3001 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., is closing, with plans to transition into a Peruvian restaurant.
Owner Mario Malcara announced the change Tuesday in a social media post, noting that the new restaurant will be called Cholo’s.
Malcara invited patrons to “celebrate one last night at Blackwood” on Saturday, Feb. 24. Musician Ben Mulwana is set to perform that night, finishing out the business’s run with an evening of afro-soul music influenced by his upbringing in Uganda.
Although Blackwood is slated to close, Malcara said the establishment will continue to host its weekly live music on Thursday evenings throughout the transition period. Upcoming performances include folk guitarist Rich Travis on Feb. 22 and Nathan Honoré‘s Next Paperback Hero, an indie rock band, on Feb. 29.
Brunch Buffet Opens on Northwest Side
For nearly three years, Dior’s Gallery held a weekly Grub at the Gallery soul food brunch buffet where guests could enjoy French toast, pancakes, catfish, smothered pork chops and more.
The event launched in early 2021 as a one-off, said venue owner Danielle Eastern. Instead, it marked the beginning of her journey to restaurant ownership.
“People just loved it,” she said. “And we loved it too.”
The pop-up, featuring live music and food from local caterers, continued throughout the following years, garnering a loyal following as word of the weekly buffet featuring soul food, barbequed meats, brunch, grilled items, Asian cuisine and more spread throughout the Northwest Side and beyond.
Coffee Bar With Space To Linger Planned For Silver Spring Drive
A northside coffee bar is making headway towards opening, more than a year after it was first proposed. Amandeep Lehal presented her plans for Eclipse Cafe, 1935 W. Silver Spring Dr., to the Milwaukee Licenses Committee on Feb. 13.
The business, Lehal said, would serve as a welcoming and laid-back spot for coffee, snacks and studying, filling a need in the neighborhood, which is markedly devoid of cafes. She compared the model to Wantable‘s Harbor District cafe, which offers a wide range of beverages, including alcoholic drinks, as well as food, Wi-Fi access and plentiful workspace.
“My vision was to open a place where I would be comfortable to study, do my business planning and just be a productive person,” she told committee members. “In talking to neighbors, I realized that they were really longing for a place where they could come together and socialize with other members of the community.”
Lehal initially requested a liquor license, intending to offer cocktails in the evening. But the plan drew opposition from neighbors who feared that alcohol sales would attract unwelcome visitors, create excessive noise and pose safety concerns.
Milwaukee Beverage Company Expanding Distribution Nationwide
A Milwaukee company is expanding its reach throughout the U.S., thanks to a new partnership with Gordon Food Service. Top Note Tonic is working with the distributor to bring its premium cocktail mixers to bars and restaurants nationwide, the brand announced in a news release.
The collaboration marks a major milestone for Top Note, which offers a range of mixers and soft drinks including grapefruit soda, ginger beer and classic tonic water — all handcrafted at 531 S. Water St., in the Harbor District.
Mary Pellettieri, the company’s co-founder, shared her excitement for the partnership and its anticipated effects.
“Our partnership with Gordon Food Service allows us to reach deeper into the hospitality industry, serving the demand of mixologists across the nation who have made Top Note a cult favorite brand,” she said in a statement. “This partnership presents an opportunity to enhance the dining and hospitality experience for consumers by offering our premium mixers and soft drinks. We believe our craft beverages can elevate the culinary journey, providing a richer and more enjoyable experience for patrons in bars, restaurants, and hotels.”
Southside Bar Will Temporarily Become Paddy’s Pub
Sugar Maple‘s latest pop-up and art show celebrates FXX’s “It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia.” The irreverent comedy, which holds the title of America’s longest-running live-action sitcom, will take center stage for a whirlwind weekend of food, drink, costumes and games that will leave guests asking, “what is your spaghetti policy here?”
It’s Always Sunny In Milwadelphia is scheduled to run from Thursday, March 14 through Sunday, March 17. For the duration of the four-day pop-up, Sugar Maple, 441 E. Lincoln Ave., and “The Gang” will transform into Paddy’s Pub, a fictional Irish dive bar operated by the show’s starring friend group.
Themed cocktails including Fight Milk, Riot Juice, Gail The Snail, Green Man and Invigaron will be available during the pop-up, as well as a selection of beers from 1840 Brewing Company. A scavenger hunt for “Paddy’s Eggs” will be held all four days, offering a chance to earn prizes ranging from drink discounts to free merch.
Beyond that, attendees can expect a lineup of interactive entertainment throughout the weekend, kicking off on Thursday, March 14 with a reception for the 11 local artists featured in the event’s themed art show. The reception is set for 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Chef and cocktail connoisseur Xay Matabele will be serving up Mac’s Famous Mac N Cheese from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.
Kehr’s Candies Leaving Milwaukee Public Market
Kehr’s Candies made an announcement last Friday that was as bittersweet as its hand-dipped chocolates.
The confectionery will leave its longtime post at the Milwaukee Public Market at the end of the month, but will continue to offer its products for deliveries, curbside pickup and, eventually, pop-ups.
Owners Katey and Paul Martinka announced the news in a social media post, noting that the transition will allow them to step away from “the demands that come with a brick-and-mortar detail candy business.” The pair also shared their gratitude for the Milwaukee Public Market and the Historic Third Ward Association.
Kehr’s Candies joined the then-new Public Market in 2006, occupying a prime spot at the center of the bustling food hall, 400 N. Water St. The business’s history, however, stretches back much further. Pearl and B.D. Kehr first launched Kehr’s in 1930, offering homemade caramel corn and potato chips. They later expanded to sell chocolate fudge and other candies, slowly adding additional products as they acquired new recipes.
New Restaurant Replacing Riverfront Pizza
After nearly two decades of dishing up wood-fired pizza Riverfront Pizzeria Bar & Grill is closed. The restaurant, 509. E. Erie St., held its final service on Wednesday, Feb. 14.
The Historic Third Ward space won’t be vacant for long. A new restaurant is already slated to replace it.
Riverfront owner Arturo Napoles Carrera announced the closure in an online post. “It is with much appreciation for the twenty years we have been serving up deliciousness for Milwaukee, that we have decided to close the doors to Riverfront Pizzeria,” he wrote. “What an exciting adventure it has been watching the Third Ward turn into an amazing piece of history and vibrant food culture!”
Sea Fire Brasserie
In the wake of the closure, a new restaurant is planning to take over the Riverfront space. On Friday, license applications were filed for Sea Fire Brasserie, the latest concept from Shannon Rowell.
Hot Dish Pantry Is All About Comfort Food
Hot Dish Pantry had a modest beginning in a stall at the 3rd Street Market Hall. When the building formerly occupied by Iron Grate BBQ became available, owners Laura Maigatter and Nathan Heck took a leap and opened their restaurant on S. Howell Ave. It is all about comfort food at Hot Dish where you order at the counter and wait for a text.
The owners redecorated the small dining area and turned it into a space where eight Formica tables and retro wooden chairs speak to comfort food even before you look at the menu. One of my lunch companions grew up with identical chairs, also around a Formica table, in his childhood home. To add to the retro vibe, there are cookbooks from the 50s and old-fashioned games to play.
It is also a restaurant where you will see a bologna sandwich. If you belong to a pre-digital generation where lunch meat came on white bread, then you might be amused at “bologna” and “text” in the same sentence when you order. At Hot Dish they upscaled the classic and named it a Chicago Style Fried Bologna Sandwich. It was all there, packed into a brioche bun: the fried bologna, plus all the adds on for a Chicago-style hot dog: tomato, onion, sweet relish, pickles, mustard, celery salt and poppy seeds. You will not miss the hot dog in this creative and tasty riff on an old favorite.
One of the specialties at Hot Dish is Pierogi. They offer several styles: Loaded Baked Potato, Aloo Chat, Pepperoni Pizza, and the one I ordered, Crab Rangoon. You are served three pierogi per order, but you need to settle on one filling as mix and match is not an option. Three Crab Rangoons topped with sweet and sour sauce and corn seasoned with togarashi (aka Japanese seven spice) were delicious. The thin crust that held the crab mixture did not overpower the filling. A side of House Tots, aka Tater Tots, and Sriracha Ranch Dip completed this filling meal.
Commercial Kitchen Launches At Concordia 27
For years, residents of the Near West Side have asked for better access to fresh food, health and wellness services, affordable housing, community gathering spaces and workforce training opportunities. A redevelopment project has a plan to meet all of those requests and more.
Concordia 27 has been progressing steadily for nearly 10 months at the corner of N. 27th and W. Wells streets. The $20 million project, expected to wrap up by early 2025, will see a vacant four-story, 97-year-old building redeveloped into a comprehensive community hub.
“At the end of the day, we’re going to have a really beautiful building. But it’s really the collaboration and the partnerships happening within that are going to bring it to life,” said Lindsey St. Arnold Bell, executive director of Near West Side Partners.
Once construction is complete, the neighborhood organization plans to move its offices into the building, 801-813 N. 27th St., where it will join anchor tenant Centers for Independence (CFI). Scaling Wellness in Milwaukee (SWIM), a trauma-informed wellness organization, and Fruition MKE, a cafe and coworking space, will also take up residence. The development is led by Rick Wiegand, who owns several properties in the neighborhood. Quorum Architects is leading the project’s design
Refugee-Focused Restaurant Damascus Gate Closes
Damascus Gate, a southside restaurant specializing in Syrian cuisine, is permanently closed.
For nearly five years, the restaurant, led by Abdul Abadeh, Rahim Silan and Nawal Mutlak, served as a cultural hub and destination for authentic Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine.
The owners’ pride in their home country went beyond the plate, manifesting in vibrant, pre-war photos hung on the apricot-colored walls and a welcoming-to-all sense of hospitality.
Abadeh, Silan and Mutlak also made a point of uplifting their fellow refugees, hiring a staff solely comprised of immigrants from places like Syria, Jordan and Jerusalem.
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