Saffron Launches Brunch Program
Plus: Paper Table tenants speak out, TerraSol opens and community rallies for Heirloom after fire.
Bar area at Saffron, 223 N. Water St. Photo taken February, 2023 by Sophie Bolich.
After months of fine-tuning and perfecting, Saffron officially launched its brunch program last weekend. The lively event, featuring an on-site DJ, marked the start of a new era for the modern Indian restaurant, 223 N. Water St., as owners Fatima and Hanish Kumar continue to build on the success of their first year in business.
Though brunch was initially soft-launched in April, the Kumars said they used the past several months as a test run, tweaking dishes along the way until they were fully satisfied with the lineup.
The resulting menu incorporates a mix of familiar brunch options such as French toast and eggs benedict, as well as traditional dishes from the north and south of India.
But even the American-leaning dishes have an Indian twist. The French toast, for example, is stuffed with mango compote and cinnamon-infused cream cheese, while the chicken and waffles feature spicy, breaded meat and sweet chili aioli — maple syrup is optional.
“We wanted to have a good blend so that people can actually connect with the brunch items,” Hanish Kumar said. “Because some of the brunch items are very unknown — they’re very much known in India, but in the US, they’re just not something people are familiar with.”
The couple has a particular passion for sharing these new dishes with the city, as well as educating guests about the background of certain foods.
The masala dosa, a rice crepe filled with curry-infused mashed potatoes, lentils, coconut chutney and spicy tomato chutney, is one such dish. Hailing from South India, the hearty crepe is a breakfast staple and is so filling that those who eat it often skip lunch and wait for dinner, Hanish Kumar said.
Another option, Delhi chole bhature, has roots in North India and consists of chickpea masala and pickled onion served with fried bread.
The restaurant has also expanded its drink menu to complement the brunch, and now offers coffee and espresso in addition to its popular Kullar chai. There’s also a selection of fresh juices, as well as signature cocktails.
A signature bloody mary gets a flavor boost from homemade tomato juice and a secret spice blend. A topping of tandoori chicken satay and tofu further elevates the drink.
A variety of mimosas, including classic orange, strawberry, lychee and jamun (a tart Indian berry), are also available, as well as golden coffee, which gets a kick from vodka, oat milk and coffee liqueur.
Amid the brunch roll-out, the Kumars have added and reintroduced several sides, including everything bagel naan and the in-demand lotus root chips.
Not a fan of brunch? The restaurant’s lunch and dinner menu is also available during the morning hours.
Throughout the month of August, Sunday brunch will feature a live DJ “to add a little pop” to the morning, Fatima Kumar said. Saturday brunch will remain a quieter affair, she added.
Saffron’s hours have been slightly extended in tandem with the brunch rollout. The restaurant is now open Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. and Friday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. for dinner. Lunch is offered Tuesday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Brunch takes place Saturday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and Sunday from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Seven Swans Creperie Is So Lovely
At Seven Swans Creperie in Riverwest, they serve sweet and savory crepes four days a week in two cozy rooms that have been transformed, from a longtime Riverwest bar and restaurant, into a cozy, colorful, light-filled space. Dino, the original owner of the establishment who was usually found behind the bar, would not recognize his place with its mismatched chairs and delightful patchwork wall covered with squares of wallpaper in multiple colors and designs.
In a conversation with the owner, Kate Bryan, I learned that she collaborated with Fred Kaems, a local mural artist to create the wall. Bryan had collected old rolls of wallpaper which Kaems, using his artist’s eye, placed on the wall. If you look carefully, you will see that the organization of designs and colors in the wallpaper are not random. It was carefully curated to create a delightful wall of art in this inviting room.
In this happy place, you order and pay at the counter. Plan to use your credit card; they do not accept cash. After you order, a server will bring your food as soon as it is ready, which guarantees your crepe did not wilt under a heat lamp.
After two recent lunches with friends, I have sampled all but one of the savory crepes and found each crepe had its own unique flavor combinations. Our lunches received unanimous and unqualified praise, starting with the presentation on a variety of old-fashioned plates that looked like they were partnered with the mis-matched chairs and quilt-like wallpaper. If we eat with our eyes and you order the crepe named Italy, then you are on the path to the clean plate club at Seven Swans. It was artfully presented and decorated with cherry tomatoes, basil, and balsamic, while inside there was pesto, mozzarella, and tomatoes. It was like a Margarita pizza with pesto and it was delicious.
TerraSol Opens in Third Ward
A new CBD and hemp store is now open in the Historic Third Ward, welcoming customers to stop in, peruse and say high — I mean hi.
TerraSol, which bills itself as a Wisconsin cannabis dispensary, opened in early July at 240 N. Milwaukee St. It’s the first Milwaukee location for the Menomonee Falls-based business, led by co-owners Keefe Olig and Mike Sickler.
Throughout the past several months, the business partners have transformed the interior of the historic building, drawing from an estimated budget of $420,000 — seriously. The building previously housed medical company Mpirik, and, well before that, an elevator company.
Olig told Urban Milwaukee at the start of the process that he aimed to restore the historic charm of the building by removing walls and other additions that have accumulated over the years, while preserving visually-appealing details and items of interest such as “huge, walk-in safes.”
Lakefront Brewery’s New Riverwalk Patio
When we last examined Lakefront Brewery in 2015, during its 17th year at its location in an old powerhouse at 1872 N. Commerce St., owner Russ Klisch had recently replaced the concrete ramp leading to its second-floor entrance and had also installed secure railings, seating and a kayak dock along its riverwalk frontage, while adding many other less-visible attributes to the facility. The improvements were sleek and of substantial construction, fitting in with the 1908 brewery building and the hulking, muscular Holton Viaduct which looms above.
In 2019, collaborating with Retailworks, a local woman-owned consulting firm, Klisch decided to install a 40 foot high display of 71 beer kegs at the northeast corner of the building, all equipped with programmable LED lights. The “Kegnado” was born, adding a bit of whimsy to the former industrial corridor, where whimsy had been hitherto unknown in the tanneries and warehouses of the district. As Klisch noted, the “work has kept the authentic look to our century-old building and contributed to the fun culture that we have here at the brewery to keep it a destination for our residents and visitors.”
I had my birthday party at Lakefront in late February 2020, and shortly thereafter the brewery suspended its tours, being one of the first establishments to close due to COVID, and before such closures were mandated. By 2022 the brewery had exited from its COVID precautions, and Klisch made the transition from bottles to cans, while also planning renovations to its riverwalk. On Tuesday, July 18th of this year, the expanded Milwaukee Riverwalk Patio, Beer Hut, and Beer Garden opened to the public with a grand ceremony, complete with a traditional “Hop Bine Cutting Ceremony,” just as had occurred a quarter century earlier when the riverwalk first opened there. (Hops lack the tendrils or suckers of vines, instead wrapping their stems around a support, hence they are “bines.”)
An Improved Riverwalk Presence
As the time for the cutting of the hop bine neared, I approached the new open staircase with its balcony, entering through a glassy iron vestibule topped with the remnants of an old copper lauter tun that Klisch had reserved for future use. Previously, access to the riverwalk was behind a solid door, leading to steep steps sheathed in ugly corrugated steel panels. It more closely resembled access to a mineshaft than to one of the region’s top 10 tourist attractions. The first person I encountered was May Klisch, taking a photograph of her husband with another woman.
Downtown Cocktail Bar Will Feature Prohibition-Era Drinks, Raw Bar
A new downtown cocktail bar will source its offerings from the vault.
The prohibition-era-styled bar, Vault, is coming soon to the Associated Bank River Center, 111 E. Kilbourn Ave. It’s one of four new concepts slated to open at the public-facing Rivercenter Market.
Located on the west side of the River Center building, Vault will have an upscale ambience complete with soaring ceilings, clean lines and gold accents. An expansive three-season terrace is situated 50 feet above the Milwaukee River, allowing guests an up-close look at passing watercraft and views of the downtown cityscape.
A selection of classic cocktails, including prohibition-era libations, will form the crux of the drink list, with an assortment of beer, wine and top shelf spirits to round out the offerings.
Paper Table Delivered Meals, Not Results, Former Tenants Charge
When Paper Table began work on its downtown Milwaukee location in 2021, the so-called virtual food hall arrived with plentiful promises.
Residents would get more than a dozen new restaurants to try, while aspiring restaurateurs would get the chance to try out their business with reduced overhead costs and support from knowledgeable mentors.
The food hall officially opened its doors in August of 2022 with one vendor, Blac Bistro. Since then, more than a dozen concepts, five run by one tenant, have come and gone — with most lasting no more than three months. After just under a year in business, the food hall’s turnover rate is more than 70%.
Several more secured food dealers licenses but parted ways with the food hall before opening.
The Secret of Lakefront Brewery’s Ranch Dressing
Lakefront Brewery‘s ranch could convert a Hidden Valley hater. The buttermilk-based dressing already has a particularly loyal following from Wisconsinites, who are known to slather the stuff on everything from pizza and popcorn to pasta and potatoes. There’s even a market for ranch-flavored ice cream.
But those who are unsure of — or even averse to — the tangy sauce, might find their minds changed by the brewery’s version, which is made in-house at a rate of approximately 65 gallons per week.
“You should see the size of the container and whisk we use to make a batch,” said Kristin Hueneke, executive chef at Lakefront Brewery.
In creating the recipe, Hueneke said she “spent a lot of time researching and experimenting” in order to perfect the flavor of the sauce, which incorporates a variety of herbs and “an embarrassing amount of mayo,” she said.
Megawich Goes Big on Brady Street
Megawich, Brady Street‘s newest restaurant, is now open and ready to satisfy even the largest appetites with its colossal sandwiches.
Located at 1426 E. Brady St., the new restaurant puts equal emphasis on both quality and quantity, offering a selection of burgers and subs piled high with extra protein, vegetables and sauces — as well as snacks and drinks.
Adham Awadalla, who co-owns Megawich with Wael Elsayed, told Urban Milwaukee in March that he was seeking to “fill a niche” in the area by offering fresh options that appeal to families and students as well as the late-night crowd.
The restaurant began its soft opening in late June — just in time for an event-packed July — and has already generated plenty of positive buzz in the neighborhood and on social media with its tagline “bigger is better.”
Fire Destroys Heirloom MKE Food Truck
Local food truck Heirloom MKE suffered a major loss over the weekend, when the vehicle was destroyed by a fire during the early-morning hours of Saturday, July 22.
The blaze, which took place in Bay View, did not spread to any surrounding buildings, and nobody was injured. An investigation into the cause of the fire is underway, according to owners Pete and Jess Ignatiev.
“That food truck is our everything. It is our livelihood. It is our future. It allows us to pay our employees, to pay our bills, to open a new restaurant…. and now it is gone,” the Ignatievs wrote in an online statement.
For better or worse, the Ignatievs are well-versed in the industry’s unpredictable nature. Before launching Heirloom MKE in 2020, the couple were on the verge of opening a brick-and-mortar restaurant. But the COVID-19 pandemic struck in the lead-up to the opening.
“Farm-To-Table” Mexican Restaurant Expanding to Milwaukee
Farm-to-table dining has always come naturally to Oscar Villarreal. The Madison chef grew up on a farm in the small town of Delavan, where he and his family tended to the land, incorporating the fruits — and vegetables — of their labor into traditional Mexican recipes.
“I still remember all the aromas from the fields,” said Villareal, who recalls the scent of mint, potatoes and an incoming rainstorm on the property. “It was probably one of the best childhoods I could have ever tried to imagine.”
Villarreal’s life, in a way, is also farm-to-table. As a young man, he left the family farm to pursue a career in the hospitality industry — starting his studies at a school in Lake Geneva and then heading south to Florida to finish at Walt Disney World.
The 20-year industry veteran has led several restaurants throughout Wisconsin. He opened Migrants, a Madison taco restaurant, in 2020. After three years of developing the concept, Villarreal is preparing to open a second location. This time in Milwaukee.
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