Barnacle Bud’s Is Nautical and Nice

Barnacle Bud’s. Photo by Cari Taylor-Carlson.

When you want a unique taste of the nautical life, pay a visit to Barnacle Bud’s. The setting falls somewhere between a Florida dive bar and a Wisconsin lake resort, the kind where the smell of the water mingles with the sounds of boats docking. At Barnacle Bud’s it doesn’t get much better than a frosty Blue Moon with a slice of orange served at a picnic table on the deck while you watch the sunset outline the skyline across the river.

Your GPS can direct you to this Kinnickinnic River riverside paradise, but if you tend to be directionally challenged, you might appreciate this short tutorial. At the north end of S. Kinnickinic Avenue in Bay View, turn east on to E. Bay Street and then turn left on S. Hilbert Street. When Hilbert becomes a bumpy mess that’s more like a dead-end alley than a street to somewhere, keep going. You will eventually arrive. Because Barnacle Bud’s shares a parking area with Skipper Bud’s, mind the signs. If you don’t have a permit, you could be towed. The threat is real. And here are two more housekeeping details: Barnacle Bud’s does not accept reservations and your dog is not welcome at the table.

Since 1992, Barnacle Bud (Gene McKiernan) and his wife Victoria have dished up seafood in sandwiches and baskets. As a longtime customer, I can give the grouper a rave whether it is served in the Traditional Fish Fry, in a Po Boy Sandwich with spicy mayo, in a Build your Own Sandwich, or combined with coleslaw and Swiss in a Grouper Reuben. Over the years I’ve opted for the Grouper Fish Fry. Nothing has changed except the price. The grouper has a light crisp tempura-like batter that keeps the fish moist and retains its mild flavor.

At a recent lunch, while I raved about the deliciousness of my grouper, my companion had a like experience with the catfish and its cornmeal crust. Both dishes came with fries, rye bread, and mild creamy slaw, classic components of a fish fry.

There’s a walkway to the back section of the restaurant where you can sit under the shade of a roof. But this could be a challenge after a few Blue Moon brews as the walkway has no guardrail to prevent an unexpected dive into the river.

You won’t run out of choices on the extensive menu. You can get a Big Dog with onions and relish, Gene’s Big Boy Burger, the Classic, with lettuce, tomato, American cheese and 1000 Island sauce, Cajun Crawfish Tails over rice with spicy garlic butter, Jambalaya over rice with chicken or shrimp, or a Lobster Roll, with or without the roll.

You will also find a Surf and Turf on the menu, a delicious combination of a perfectly charred medium steak topped with four plump grilled shrimp, along with baby potatoes, garlic bread, and salad. There was enough on the plate for a share because my companions also ordered Clam Chowder, only available on Fridays. It was thick, full of clams, and included bits of celery for extra flavor and crunch. It also had enough heat to wake up your mouth and to keep it interesting.

From Appetizers, my friend and I shared two Crab Cakes. They were served with coleslaw and spicy remoulade sauce, a classic complement that enhanced the flavors in the crab cakes.

If I had to pick a favorite from many meals at Barnacle Bud’s, it would be the Po Boy Shrimp Sandwich. This one is for shrimp lovers. The chef overflows the bun with more than a dozen juicy shrimp coated with spicy mayonnaise. A side of sliced jalapeno adds more fire if you are up to it. For the Grouper Po Boy, the fish is grilled, and makes an equally tasty sandwich.

In addition to the wine and beer selection, there’s a Moscow Mule with vodka and ginger beer, the Dark and Stormy, ginger beer and rum, and Victoria’s Cooler with Pear vodka, cranberry juice and lemonade. If I order something especially spicy at lunch, the non-alcoholic, sweet, tart lemonade is my drink of choice.

If you want dessert, order the Key Lime Pie. It’s sweet, tart, and covered with whipped cream. It tastes as good as it looks.

I return often to Barnacle Bud’s because it’s a place where I can anticipate a cold brew, good food, attentive, friendly servers, and a front row seat to a memorable sunset.

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• Location: 1955 S. Hilbert St.
• Phone: 414-481-9974
• Neighborhood: Bay View
• Website: http://www.barnacle-buds.com
• Twitter: https://twitter.com/barnaclebuds
• Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/BarnacleBuds/
• UM Rating: 3.75 stars (average of Yelp, Trip Advisor and Zomato)