great Chipotle recipes
I don’t normally plug chain restaurants, but Chipotle is one I’d like to have in my own neighborhood. The meat they use is a special attraction to me because every time I’ve supped there, everything from the steak to the chicken or pork has been tender and lean. Although I generally prefer independently owned places, I recently stopped in an a Mexican eatery, to remain nameless, that served meat so tough and greasy it was inedible. With both pinto and black beans and fajita-style vegetables on the menu, Chipotle works for vegetarians as well. Even for my friend who is a strict macrobiotic vegetarian. For about $10 bucks you can have a massive burrito with a beer or Margarita. The Margaritas are large, potent and also rank with the best I’ve had at corner-in-the-wall ethnic gems. For just a couple of dollars more, you can have outstanding (it tastes like what I make at home) guacamole and chips. None of the stores have the convenience of drive through service and according to corporate sources, that’s not in the works. Considering the prices, the fast buffet service and the quality of product, I would project Chipotle to be relatively recession proof. Chipotle does not offer coupons or specials, but if you come in on Halloween dressed like a Chipotle burrito, your burrito is on the house. Two recipes from Chipotle Ancho Chile Marinade for Meat by Steve Ells, Founder & CEO, Chipotle Mexican Grill 1 pkg (2 oz.) dried ancho chilis or dried pepper of choice 1 tsp. black pepper 2 tsp. cumin powder 2 tbsp. fresh oregano, chopped 6 cloves garlic 1/2 red onion, quartered 1/4 cup vegetable oil 4 cuts of meat of choice Soak dry chilis in water overnight or until soft. Remove seeds. Add all ingredients except meat in food processor. Puree until smooth. Spread mixture over meat and refrigerate at least one hour, up to 24 hours. Heat grill to about 400 degrees, or if cooking inside heat small amount of oil in skillet or grill pan over high heat. Salt meat to taste. Grill meat about 4 minutes per side, depending upon thickness, until done. Serve with rice, black beans, or choice of side dish. Garnish with fresh cilantro. Chipotle Adobo Marinade for Grilled Vegetables by Steve Ells, Founder & CEO, Chipotle Mexican Grill 1 small can Chipotle peppers in adobo sauce 1 – 2 tbs. Soft butter (olive oil for vegans) 1 – 2 tsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice Use four tablespoons of the Chipotle adobo sauce. Save the Chipotle peppers for another use. Mix adobo sauce with butter and lemon juice. Brush over vegetables before and during grilling. Salt and pepper to taste. Recommended vegetables Corn on the cob Peel back husks but don’t remove remove silks. Brush with adobo mixture, rehusk and wrap in foil. Grill 10 – 15 minutes, turning occasionally until tender. Japanese eggplants Quarter lengthwise and parboil until bright in color (2 – 3 minutes). Brush with adobo mixture. […]
Apr 8th, 2009
Sound Bites
Welcome to the new Sound Bites, a ThirdCoast Digest/VITAL blog about excellent eating and great values here on the Third Coast. As in my previous columns for Vital Source Magazine, “Chow, Baby!” and “Eat This,” these will be informative blogs about local troughing, from the humblest hot dog to the most luxurious fois gras. We’ll hear from outstanding home cooks to some of the best chefs in the nation who are cooking here in Milwaukee. Here, you’ll find (hopefully) interesting tips and entertaining stories on: Sound eating Sound nutrition Sound recipes Sound kitchen tools and equipment Sound restaurants Sound values Sound tips on great values Sound chefs Sound inside track on local culinary trends Sound consumer opinions on eating in Milwaukee First Sound Tip: Get a free Marcus Rewards Card for discounts and freebies at Marcus Hotels & Resorts. Stop in at any of the following destinations to get your free card or sign up online at www.MarcusRewards.com. I’ve used the card and it’s great. It got me an invitation to a terrific free cheese, lamb chop and wine tasting at the Milwaukee Chop House. The weather outside was frightful, but inside it was delightful with great food and wine and a full house to downtown notables. Milwaukee Marcus Restaurants: Kil@wat Restaurant, 139 E. Kilbourn Ave Mason Street Grill, 425 E. Mason St Milwaukee ChopHouse, 509 W. Wisconsin Ave Miller Time Pub, 509 W. Wisconsin Ave CLEAR, 139 E. Kilbourn Ave Café at the Pfister, 424 E. Wisconsin Ave The Café at the Hilton, 509 W. Wisconsin Ave The Rouge, Sunday brunch, 424 E. Wisconsin Ave Starbucks at the Hilton, 509 W. Wisconsin Ave Marcus Entertainment & Nightlife spots: Blu Lounge at The Pfister, 424 E. Wisconsin Ave Lobby Lounge at The Pfister, 424 E. Wisconsin Ave zenden at InterContinental Milwaukee, 139 E. Kilbourn Ave Upon enrollment, you get 200 bonus points. Additional points are added any time you frequent any of the above locations. Get double points on Sundays from 4 to midnight at locations open during those hours. These points will get you discounts at all of these venues. Also enjoy free member events such as: NCAA tournament Kick-off, Miller Time Pub Mar 19, 5:30-7:30pm. Show off your b-ball skills and win prizes, or just come to watch. The New Blu – Blu at the Pfitser May 7, 5:30-7:00pm. Blu Martinis and a sampling of Executive Chef Weber’s culinary creations,while enjoying the atmosphere and view from the 23rd floor of the Pfister in the newly renovated lounge.
Mar 2nd, 2009
Keeping warm, Ukrainian style
Vasyl Lemberskyy Owner/Chef – Transfer Pizzeria Café 101 W. Mitchell St. 414-763-0438 • transfermke.com (photos by Melissa Merline) The economy may be suffering, but you’d never know it from the percolating patronage of a restaurant less than a year old: Transfer. Co-owner and, in his own words, “Chef Extraordinaire” Vasyl Lemberskyy grew up in Kiev, Ukraine when it was still a Soviet Socialist Republic. There, the economy left people so destitute that hunger was rampant, and the Chernobyl disaster occurred just a few hours away. Lemberskyy made pizza for 20 years in Ukraine and later studied with a Master chef in Italy. When he moved to the United States in 2001, he thought he’d sworn off restaurant work for good. “It’s hard work. I’m tired all the time, not enough time for my family or myself.” Nonetheless, he worked for Polonez and then opened several restaurants alone and with partners, among them Primavera and Fresche. At Transfer, the focus is on Lemberskyy-style pizza, pasta and paninis. He is not overly boastful about his cred as a pizza maker, especially considering his product: his crusts, all made daily by hand, are thin enough to be crispy with enough body to hold a luscious chewy center. The garlic pizza is lavished with a creamy sauce and cheese and slides down the throat without being greasy. You won’t find any Ukrainian dishes on Transfer’s menu, so you’ll have to try this hearty winter favorite in your own kitchen. Zrazy – Vasyl’s Favorite Ukrainian Dish Zrazy are small potato pancakes filled with meat and fried in fat. Zrazy are usually served with fried pork fat. 2 lbs potatoes 1 lb beef 2 large onions, chopped and fried 2 cups sunflower oil Salt to taste Grate half of the potatoes finely. Boil another half in skins. Peel off, grate and add to the uncooked potatoes, then blend and salt to taste. Boil meat, then grind in a food processor and combine with fried finely chopped onion. Shape small cakes and fill in with meat. Fry in oil until light brown. Serve at once. We want you! Submit your recipes for consideration to eatthis@vitalsourcemag.com. We might use them in a future edition of Eat This! Ulana Tyshynsky Ulana Tyshynsky, a fourth grade teacher at Forest Home Avenue School, proudly maintains the Ukrainian culture passed on by her immigrant parents. Cuisine is one of the things she values from her heritage. This bread is a holiday tradition but is also made though out the year. It’s best stored in plastic for several weeks to let the honey mellow before serving. A fun fact: many Ukrainians worship in the Eastern Orthodox tradition and celebrate Christmas on January 7. Medivnyk (Ukrainian honey loaf) ½ cup butter 1 cup dark honey 6 eggs, separated 1 cup powdered sugar 3 cups all-purpose flour ½ t ground cloves ½ t ground cinnamon 1 t baking soda 1 cup golden raisins (optional) 1 cup chopped walnuts (optional) Melt honey and butter over […]
Jan 1st, 2009
A fresh catch for New Year’s Eve
Chef Dan Smith McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood Restaurant 414-475-0700 mccormickandschmicks.com “Fresh” comes to mind when I think of the seafood at McCormick & Schmick’s. The slightly briny oysters taste like they were just harvested and served at a seaside bistro instead of a restaurant landlocked in a shopping center parking lot. Chef Dan Smith uses a light hand in seasoning and saucing the daily menu’s 30-some varieties of fresh catch. “I love New Year’s Eve,” says Smith, “because people are ready to go out and have an awesome time and it’s almost a given that you’ll have no complaints, you’ll have happy people [who] want to be wined and dined and eat fussy food. So I usually pull out lobster, filet and truffles and truffle oil and morels because people are willing to pay for it.” Smith, who opened Envoy at the Ambassador Hotel in 2005 and spent 20 years cooking in San Francisco, including a stint with the renowned Jeremiah Tower’s Stars Restaurant, has fun cooking for his appreciative holiday customers. You will too when you try his special New Year’s Eve menu. Ginger Vodka Cooler Ginger-infused vodka gives this cocktail a refreshing flavor. 1.5 oz ginger-infused vodka 3 oz ginger ale 1 oz cranberry juice Dried cranberries Candied ginger Fill your favorite holiday glass with ice. Add home-infused ginger vodka (recipe at vitalsourcemag.com!). Add in the ginger ale. Top with the cranberry juice and garnish with dried cranberries and candied ginger. Enjoy! Ginger-infused vodka Perfect for your holiday entertaining or give as a gift! Find a good-looking glass jar large enough to hold a little more than 750 milliliters of liquid. Fill with your favorite vodka (the higher grade the better). Grate or peel about 1.5 teaspoons fresh ginger and add to the vodka. (Peel the ginger in long curly pieces for a festive look.) Tightly seal your jar and store for a few days, then open and stir your vodka. Seal it up again and store for a few more days. Your vodka should be ready to spice up your holiday cocktails in about a week. Chef Dan Smith’s Crab Cakes Yields about 20 4-oz cakes 1 cup mayonnaise 4 large eggs, beaten 1 T old bay seasoning 1 t ground black pepper 1 t dry mustard 1 t kosher salt 1 t Worcestershire sauce 1 lb-loaf white bread, crust removed, diced 2.5 lbs lump crabmeat, pasteurized 1/3 cup chopped parsley Combine mayonnaise, eggs and seasonings in a bowl. In a separate bowl, mix bread, crabmeat and parsley. Gently fold sauce into crabmeat mix, taking care not to break up or mash crabmeat. Chill at least two hours. Form four- or eight-ounce cakes. Pan fry or deep fry the crab cakes until golden brown. Serve with lemons, tartar sauce or your favorite condiment. Phyllo Wrapped Smoked Salmon with Crème Fraiche Mousse 3 phyllo sheets 9 oz smoked salmon 2 oz crème fraiche 1 oz capers 1 oz egg white Lay phyllo on a flat surface and lightly […]
Dec 1st, 2008
More than green beans
By Catherine McGarry Miller Photos by Lynn Allen Chef Partner Dustin Green Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar flemingssteakhouse.com At 28, Flemings Chef Partner Dustin Green has mounted the corporate cookery ladder like a firefighter rescuing a baby. His love for cooking started at age 10 and lead to two college degrees in culinary arts and hospitality. “The principles of Fleming’s make it the best company I’ve ever worked for,” he says. These values include excellence, hospitality and respect as well as fun, trust and balance. Hierarchy is eschewed in favor of an egalitarian system of associates instead of employees. The fun comes naturally, says Green. “Fun with the menus, using the best products money can buy – in a professional environment. This makes for a happier and more successful staff.” Pumpkin Bread Pudding 6 cups diced baguette 2 cups heavy cream 1 1/4 cups canned pumpkin Five whole eggs 1 1/2 T corn syrup 1/4 cup plus 2 tbsp sugar 1 1/4 t vanilla extract 1/2 t ground ginger 1 1/4 t ground cinnamon 1/4 t nutmeg 1/4 t salt Room temperature butter as needed Extra sugar as needed Whipped cream, walnuts, mint sprig (optional) Orange crème anglaise (below) Dice baguette into ½” pieces and place on a sheet pan. Bake in a 250º oven for 8 minutes to dry out. Place cream in a saucepan and bring to a low simmer. In a large mixing bowl, combine pumpkin, eggs, corn syrup, sugar, vanilla, ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. Whip to blend well. Slowly add warm cream and baguette; mix well. Allow to sit at room temperature for 5 minutes. Spread butter inside five 12 oz. coffee cups, then coat with sugar. Evenly fill each cup with pudding mix, leaving ½” at the top. Place cups in a 2” deep baking pan and fill the pan with 1” of water. Bake in a 325º oven for 35-40 minutes or until a toothpick comes out dry. Let cool for 5 minutes, then invert the cup to remove the bread pudding. Place 1 ½ oz. orange crème anglaise in the center of a 9” plate. Squirt caramel sauce in a spiral design in the anglaise. Using a toothpick, make a web design. Set the bread pudding on top of the sauce with the crusted side facing up and top with a dollop of whipped cream. Serve with walnuts and a mint sprig, if you like. Orange Crème Anglaise 1 qt heavy cream 1 vanilla bean 1 cup fresh egg yolks 1 cup sugar 2 cups pasteurized orange juice 2 T orange zest In a saucepot over high heat, add cream. Slice vanilla bean in half lengthwise and add flesh and skin to cream. Heat cream for 10-15 minutes to let cream rise to the top of the saucepot, then turn off heat. Separate eggs and place the yolks in a mixing bowl. Combine the sugar with the yolks and mix well. Temper the egg and sugar mixture by gradually pouring a […]
Nov 1st, 2008
Octoberfeast
Oktoberfest is a 16-day festival held each year in Munich, Germany. Originated in 1810 to commemorate the wedding of Crown Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese of Bavaria, it is reputed to be the world’s largest fair, with millions celebrating every year by troughing mass quantities of food and lager. Here are a couple of great recipes for your own Octoberfeast. VS (Photos by Lynn Allen) Chef/Owner John Poulos Karl Ratzsch’s 320 E Mason Street Milwaukee, WI 53202 414-276-2720 Karl Ratzsch’s celebrates its 105th birthday next year. Chef/owner John Poulos came on board in 1976 as a prep cook during his training at MATC’s culinary school. Many of the Southern German recipes go back to Mama Ratzch’s originals, like the renowned hot bacon salad dressing, the sauerbraten, wiener schnitzel, roast goose, stuffed pork chops and German potato salad. Five years ago, with partners Tom Andera and Judy Hazard, Poulos bought the restaurant from the Ratzch family. Poulos has since tweaked the menu, adding appetizers and lighter fare. His salmi recipe is the happy result of a mistake. Mr. Ratzch was roasting ducks and forgot about them, so they overcooked. He took bar olives and cherries and made a sauce with Burgundy wine. It’s been on the menu or run as a special ever since and is always featured at lunch and dinner on Saturdays. Karl Ratzch’s Salmi of Duck Shanks A salmi, short for salmigondis, is a ragout of wild game, often featuring waterfowl plentiful during Wisconsin’s fall hunting season. You may also stalk down all the ingredients you need in the aisles of your grocery store. 6 duck shanks (8 to 10 ounces each) Salt and pepper to taste Granulated garlic to taste 2 onions, sliced 4 bay leaves 6 cups chicken stock ¼ cup honey ½ cup packed light brown sugar 2 cups frozen sour cherries, thawed ½ cup pimento olives, sliced ¼ cup Burgundy wine ½ cup cornstarch mixed in ½ cup cold water Chicken base to taste Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Season shanks with salt, pepper and garlic. Put duck shanks skin side up in a 15-by-10-by-2-inch roasting pan and cook 40 minutes in the oven or until light brown in color. Add onions, bay leaves and stock. Cover with foil and roast in preheated oven for 40 minutes. Remove foil and baste. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees. Return to oven without covering. Cook 30 to 40 minutes longer, or until golden brown and the meat is tender. Remove shanks and strain stock. Transfer strained stock to a saucepan. Add honey, brown sugar, cherries, olives and Burgundy. Bring to boil, then thicken with cornstarch and water mixture until the consistency of a medium-thick gravy. Adjust seasoning of sauce with chicken base to enhance flavor, then return meat to roasting pan and top with sauce. Roast 15 to 20 minutes. Serve with wild rice and stuffing. Makes 3 servings. Ms. Marcellyne C. Amann Ms. Amann grew up in a large family of German and Irish heritage […]
Oct 1st, 2008
Father & Son Lunch Box Specials
Vanessa Goodman and Erick Fisher met at the The Trellis in Williamsburg, Virginia, where they worked long hours for chef/owner Marcel Desaulnier, a James Beard Award- winner and chocolatiere known as “The Guru of Ganache.” Fisher apprenticed at restaurants while still in school in his ethnically diverse hometown of Long Beach, California. Devon Seafood Grill lured him to Philadelphia and then to Milwaukee in November 2006. Of their three children, Charlee, Erick and Chancellor, it is Chance, the youngest at 6, who has developed a passion for cookery. When time allows, father and son are working on a cookbook together. Says Erick, “It’s his idea. He’ll ask me a question about something and I’ll make him go look it up and then we’ll make it together. He’s really into this cooking thing, no matter how hard I try to dissuade him. When I push him away, it just increases his hunger for it. This is a business that takes me away from my family a lot so you can’t be in it halfway – you have to be really good at it.” To Chance, who started working with food at his Montessori school in Philly, it’s simple. “I just created stuff and didn’t use a recipe – it turned out pretty good!” He is still thinking of a title, but he does believe that his wraps are “very tasty.” VS Chancellor Fisher’s Favorite Lunch Cucumber & Cherry Tomato Salad Photos by Dane Haman 5 medium cucumbers 1/2 cup sour cream 3 T mayonnaise 1 bunch fresh dill, stems removed 1/2 cup cherry tomatoes Salt & pepper to taste Peel each cucumber and slice in half lengthwise. Scoop out seeds and slice each half into 1-inch sections (half moons). Place cucumbers in large bowl and add sour cream and mayonnaise and stir until blended. Add dill and blend well. Add cherry tomatoes, salt and pepper. Chill for about an hour. Bologna & Cheese Wrap – makes 4 wraps “Chance likes Lebanon Bologna – it is a tangy & tart beef sausage from Lebanon, PA. It goes really well with Swiss cheese and mustard. We haven’t been able to find it since we left the east coast, so you can substitute your favorite lunchmeat and cheese combination,” says mom Vanessa. 1/2 lb. Lebanon Bologna or Roast Beef 1/2 lb. Swiss cheese 1/4 cup low-fat ranch dressing 4 t mustard 4 leaves of Romaine lettuce 1 kosher dill pickle, sliced thinly Wash lettuce and let dry. Spread thin layer of ranch dressing and mustard on each wrap. Add meat and cheese, then lettuce and pickles, and roll tightly. Finish off this great lunch with a bunch of washed fresh grapes. Erick Fisher’s Grilled Veggie Chicken Sandwich Next time you’re grilling on the weekend, throw on a couple extra chicken breasts and the veggies for this weekday lunchtime repast. Use the veggie relish as an accent to any grilled meats. 1 5-oz. chicken breast, grilled 2 slices smoked mozzarella cheese 2 slices sourdough bread, […]
Sep 1st, 2008
Wrap and Roll
Wraps are perfect for summertime – they require little cooking and pack up easily for boating, picnics and other excursions. Don’t be put off by Christopher Miller’s (no relation) lengthy instructions and ingredients – it’s all quick and easy to do! My recipe has just a few ingredients and has always been a crowd pleaser for me. VS REFRESHING GRILLED FUSION AHI TUNA WRAP Christopher Miller General Manager and Executive Chef Sake Tumi 714 N. Milwaukee St. 414-224-7253 sake-milwaukee.com Photos by Lynn Allen Christopher Miller, General Manager and Executive Chef of Sake Tumi, came into the Asian food market as fresh clay. He had lots of experience with Italian food working for the Bartolotta’s, the Balistrieri’s and Johnny Vassallo, but had to learn the aesthetics of Asian cooking when he moved into his current position. To learn how to wrap and roll the Japanese way, he studied with Ken Sung at Yokaso in Brookfield. Beyond the food, working at Sake Tumi has been a cultural awakening for Miller, who has learned “a whole new way of communicating” with an emphasis on respect for age, gender and hierarchy. It’s a sensibility that will no doubt follow him into his next adventure and beyond. 4 10-inch flour tortillas 1 8 oz. Ahi (yellow fin) tuna steak (#1 plus/sushi grade) (any protein may be substituted) ½ cup cooled prepared rice of choice (long grain, instant, jasmine, etc – leftover take-out is fine!) ½ whole pineapple or 16 oz. can sliced pineapple 2 jalapeño peppers 2 vine-ripened tomatoes 1 small head of iceberg (your favorite, more nutritious variety may be substituted) 1 small sweet onion 10 springs cilantro 1 lime 1 thumb-sized lobe of ginger ¼ cup soy sauce Salt and pepper PREP Clean skin off tuna. Mince ginger and mix with ¼ cup soy sauce. Marinate tuna in mixture for one hour. While tuna marinates, skin, core and slice pineapple. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside. For the lettuce mix, finely shred lettuce and onion and chop cilantro. Mix with lime juice and add zest from lime for extra kick, if you wish. Season with salt and pepper. (My signature mix: goes good with anything! burgers, tacos, sandwiches etc) GRILL Grill tuna rare to medium rare. Slice into thin slices and let cool. Grill pineapple, cut into chunks and let cool. Grill jalapeños until blackened. Soak in ice water until cool. Peel off skin. Slice in half, clean out seeds and Julienne. (Great technique to add flavor without lots of heat!). Grill tomatoes using same technique. WRAP Grill 4 tortillas. Layer with tuna slices. Load with rice, pineapple, jalapeño, tomatoes and lettuce mix. Wrap it up, eat and enjoy! Makes 4 wraps. MIDWEST MIDEAST WRAPS Catherine McGarry Miller Event planner, author, book editor and VITAL columnist This recipe comes from my love for Mideastern food, which I was introduced to as a ten-year-old by my aunt and uncle. It is part of my cookbook in progress called The Gutless Gourmet. 1 8-oz […]
Aug 1st, 2008
Red, White & Bleu
The French celebrate their independence in July, just like us – on the 14th, the anniversary of the day the peasants stormed the Bastille and raided its cache of weapons. Their banner, like ours, is red, white and blue, colors that stand for liberty, equality, and fraternity, the ideals of the French Revolution. Taste Chef Frakes’ tribute to both cultures at his demonstration at Bastille Days on Saturday, July 12 at 2 pm. VS WHITE DONUT PEACH BEIGNETS, RED BEAUJOLAIS SYRUP & BLUEBERRY SMASH The Pfister Hotel 424 E. Wisconsin Ave., Milwaukee 414-273-8222 Brian Frakes, a Brookfield native, moved to West Palm Beach at the age of twelve. He majored in Psychology at Florida State University while launching what would be a distinguished career in hospitality as a dishwasher. Once finding his true calling, Frakes learned to cook under talented chefs in Florida and Los Angeles. It was The Pfister Hotel, and the fact that his family had moved back to Milwaukee, that drew him home again. “I was always proud of where I came from and The Pfister is clearly Milwaukee’s flagship property. It’s one of only 400 rated as a ‘Preferred Hotel’ in the world,” he says. Here’s a red, white and “bleu” play on the classic beignet. Stone fruits are back in season and donut peaches are among the best. Whip up this simple fritter batter the day before and have fresh donuts in the morning with your coffee! For donut peach beignets 2 c flour 2 T sugar 2 t baking powder ½ t salt 2 T powdered milk 1 t cinnamon 2 eggs each ½ c water 2 c roasted donut peaches, diced 2 T corn oil 2 T powered sugar Combine all dry ingredients, then add wet ingredients in a mixer and blend. Do not overwhip. Chill in refrigerator for at least an hour. Deep fry generous spoonfuls of dough in hot oil until golden brown (about 4 minutes). Sprinkle with powdered sugar. Red Beaujolais Syrup 1 c Beaujolais Nouveau ½ c white balsamic vinegar 2 T brown sugar ¼ vanilla bean Combine ingredients in a saucepan and heat until reduced by 2/3. Set aside to cool. Drizzle sauces over beignets and enjoy! Blueberry Smash 1 c blackberries 1 c blueberries 1/3 c sugar 3 T Grand Marnier Combine blackberries & blueberries with sugar in a sauté pan and heat on medium heat until sugar caramelizes. Drizzle in Grand Marinier and set aside to cool. GOUGERES (CHEESE PUFFS) Geneviève Leplae came to America from Vesoul, a small town east of Dijon. Now retired from teaching French at Berlitz and the Alliance Francaise, she recalls her heritage with this traditional Burgundian snack that can be made ahead and served later. A widow with five children, her oldest daughter, Anne Herisson-Leplae, is the Director of the Alliance Francaise of Milwaukee. 1 recipe Choux Paste: 1 c sifted all-purpose flour ½ c water ½ c milk 8 T butter, cut in small pieces ½ t salt 4 […]
Jul 1st, 2008
Gone Fishing
Photos by Erin Landry Summer is never so sweet as it is after a crushing winter. So it’s time to pull out the fishing rod and relax to the tune of water lapping at the shore. Here are two easy fish and shrimp dishes for your catch – with a cocktail to wash them down. Fishbone’s Ragin’ Cajun Pasta Executive Chef and Partner Jessie Souza Fishbones Cajun & Creole 1704 Milwaukee Street Delafield, WI 53018 262-646-4696 For the past eight years, Chef Souza, formerly Corporate Chef for Louise’s in California and Milwaukee, has been wowing patrons with his Cajun-Creole fusion at Fishbones in Delafield. Diners enjoy the colorful, festive décor inside or peaceful view overlooking Lake Nagawicka from the bar or outside deck. Harkening to his roots, the chef has recently introduced a Mexican menu. Particularly notable are his crispy flautas with a moist, tasty chicken filling. ¾ lb Andouille sausage ¾ lb grilled chicken 2 small tomatoes, chopped ½ c sliced mushrooms 1 pint heavy whipping cream 12 shrimp, cleaned 6 T olive oil Salt & pepper to taste Cajun seasoning to taste 1 lb spaghetti pasta (cooked) Method: In a medium sauté pan, add the oil and heat for 2 minutes. Add the sausage and cook for 1 minute. Add chicken and cook for 1 minute. Add shrimp and cook for 2-3 minutes. Add tomatoes and mushrooms, cook for 3-4 minutes. Next add the whipping cream and season with salt and pepper. Let the cream reduce for 3-4 minutes, then add Cajun seasoning to your liking. Finally add the pasta and mix well, place in a medium bowl and serve. Serves four. Tropical Salmon Fantasy + Summer Sensation Cocktail Auto Zone store manager Joseph Russell loves to cook daily feasts and fancy dinner parties for friends. He got his chops from his mother and working as a chef on Amtrak’s Southwest Chief line. 4 salmon filets (about 4 ounces each) Extra virgin olive oil 2 T fresh dill, or 1 T dry Salt and pepper to taste Dust salmon filets with salt and pepper and dill. Place in baking dish skin side down. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and bake at 375 degrees for 10 to 15 minutes or until flakey. Serve with Mango Tango Salsa. Mango Tango Salsa ½ papaya, diced ½ mango, diced ¼ c chopped scallion, green part only ¼ c diced red bell pepper 1 T finely diced fresh jalapeno pepper 1 T chopped fresh cilantro 1 small clove garlic, minced 1 T fresh lime juice ¼ t salt ½ t extra virgin olive oil Combine all ingredients and chill for at least one hour. Serve with baked salmon. Summer Sensation Cocktail 1 shot vodka Prepared raspberry lemonade 1 Lemon wedge 2 Strawberries Fill a highball glass with ice. Pour in vodka and chill in freezer for a few minutes. Take out of freezer and fill glass with raspberry lemonade. Squeeze lemon wedge into drink and garnish with quartered strawberries on a swizzle […]
Jun 1st, 2008
Mom’s sweet comforts
Food has always been a human fascination that far surpasses its integral role in survival. We love things that taste good; we crave the flavors that remind us of our childhood, that excite us and that make taking nourishment an experience beyond simple sustenance. Some of us enjoy expanding our palates at a trusted bistro. For others, the sampling of new flavors invites us to recreate the experience in our own kitchens. In this new VITAL column, we’re pairing recipes from area gastronomic gurus with those of community contributors who just love to cook. All are here for your enjoyment, and for you to try at home. We hope these recipes will open up fresh and fabulous culinary territory for you, while introducing local resources for high quality and inventive foods and beverages. This month we celebrate Mother’s Day with two recipes that embody the spirit of Mom’s kitchen magic. The first is an elegant spin on an old chestnut by Chef Cristopher Taube of the Milwaukee Chop House; the second is one of my own mother’s favorite cakes that’s easy and delicious. Photo by Kevin Groen Chef Christopher Taube’s Grilled Peach Melba Milwaukee Chop House 633 N. 5th Street Milwaukee 414-226-CHOP milwaukeechophouse.com This dessert, first created in the late 19th century, was seminal French chef Auguste Escoffier’s panegyric to his favorite opera singer, Dame Nellie Melba. The original was made with vanilla ice cream and fresh peaches with a raspberry sauce. La Melba, who worried about the effect of cold ice cream on her valued vocal chords, would appreciate the unfrozen mascarpone substitution in Chef Taube’s luscious version. For the whipped mascarpone: ½ c mascarpone cheese ¼ c crème fraiche (or sour cream) 1 T honey 2 T granulated sugar In a mixing bowl with a wire whip, combine the crème fraiche, sugar and honey. A little at a time, add the mascarpone cheese, incorporating well after each addition. Cover and refrigerate until needed. For the Apple brandy gastrique: ¼ c cider vinegar ¼ c apple brandy ¼ c granulated sugar 1 T unsalted butter Combine vinegar and sugar in a small saucepot and bring to a boil, reducing until just before the caramel stage. Add the apple brandy. Continue cooking until reduced by half and remove from fire. Whisk in butter and hold warm. For Grilled Peaches and to Assemble: 1 fresh peach, halved ¼ c apple brandy gastrique ¾ c whipped mascarpone Place peaches on the grill over moderate heat and cook until tender, turning often. (You may sauté the peach halves in a small amount of butter in a saucepan instead.) Remove from the grill and cut halves into quarters. Lay two quarters on a plate in an X. Top with mascarpone mixture and drizzle generously with apple brandy gastrique. Mary Miller’s Apple Walnut Cake (Adapted from Cate Miller’s book, The Gutless Gourmet) My mother took great pride in her cooking and this cake was one of her triumphs because it’s simple, sensational and so moist […]
May 1st, 2008
For the health of it
By Catherine McGarry Miller Photos by Erin Gebhart Yeah, yeah, yeah. We all know we should eat healthier. We Americans are overfed and undernourished and we know it. Still, to most of us, the words “healthy” and “tasty” seem incompatible. It’s Judy Mayer’s job to bridge that gap. As Nutritionist for Outpost Natural Foods, Mayer guides clients toward healthier lifestyles. She is neither zealot nor evangelist. Personally, she’s a meat minimalist but not pure vegetarian. Her husband is a hunter who prepares his venison alongside her in their kitchen whilst she prepares her vegetables. They come together over side dishes, proving that vegetarians and meat-atarians can successfully coexist. Mayer comes to her present position after many years in the retail grocery business. Her father died tragically young in a car accident when Mayer was just 12. It’s still tender ground. Her mother, an occupational therapist, did not remarry but raised her three children alone. From that young age, Mayer was impressed with her mother’s devotion to her children and her ability to keep food on the table, even with a very demanding schedule. “My mother was a good cook and that’s all I knew. At home we ate the same 10 meals over and over again.” The menu included good old Sunday pot roasts drenched in gravy, broccoli swimming in butter, the “best pork roast ever,” tuna casseroles, fabulous pies and the “best sugar cookies in the world.” Still, it was a limited palette. When she started a job at Red Owl at age 16, Mayer was amazed at the range of foods available. “My love of food came from that first job and working in retail groceries my whole life. I think I’ve worked for every chain. I love being around people and food. As a cashier you get to talk to a lot of people. You also see all the foods people are buying and all the foods they shouldn’t be buying. It really bothered me to see what parents were feeding their children and I experimented at home with recipes. Most people read magazines; I read cookbooks. I’ll take a good cookbook instead of a novel any day.” At home, Mayer experimented with healthful alternatives. “I started adding more fiber, reducing fat and using whole grain instead of the white flour we all grew up with. We were always adding to our repertoire with recipes like cherry crisp with oatmeal crust with cherry pie filling – my kids still love it.” Mayer started in management at Outpost 13 years ago. “Outpost helped me through school and helped me create my own job and I love it. Every day is different – I get to share my passion for good food and my mission is to get everyone to eat a healthy diet one step at a time.” Her main duties are store tours, individual nutritional counseling, nutrition classes and cooking demonstrations at the store and in the community. For just $25 an hour, Mayer offers nutritional counseling […]
Mar 1st, 2008
Have a heart
Maxie’s Southern Comfort 6732 W. Fairview Avenue 414-292-3969 maxies.com Save yourself a trip to N’awlins: Take I94 to 68th. Head north one block north and pull into Maxie’s Southern Comfort. With snow piled high as corn in July, Maxie’s is a hot spot that has already been discovered after eight months in business. Executive Chef Joe Muench puts the South in yo’ mouth with every bite of Southern specialty from barbecued shrimp and ribs to fried green tomatoes and succotash to blackened catfish. Is it any different from what you’d have south of the Mason-Dixon? Yes: it’s a whole lot better here. Muench opened Maxie’s for owners Dan Sidner and Chick Evens as a sister bistro to Evens’ Maxie’s Supper Club in Ithaca, New York. Their broad take on Southern cookery is reflected in the French, Spanish, German and African accents to the cuisine. The atmosphere is warmed with cayenne-colored walls, sparkling little chandeliers and red drapes roped together with massive gold tassels. The chef’s diverse culinary education and experience is evident on every plate. A notable special: the large grilled scallops served over sweet potato hash with frisee lettuce and a poached egg that bursts open to enrich the light butter sauce is mighty fine for anybody hankering to “grab a root” (have dinner). The suggested wine pairing is a rich, smoky pinot noir that tangles nicely on the taste buds with the hickory bacon in the hash. Just as enticing are the seared tenderloin filets drenched in a bourbon glaze, with barely steamed fresh spinach and crunchy corn succotash. Though the chef personally eschews fried food, the creamy potato croquettes and the lacey onion rings are evidence that he’s mastered the art. Using them as accents rather than focal points keeps the diner out of the heart attack zone. Slow your pulse even more with a Scarlet O’Hara, a tot of Southern Comfort, cranberry juice and bitters that, like its namesake, is sweet, sassy and surprisingly potent. Chef Muench learned his trade right here in Milwaukee, starting at his grandmother’s table. “How many kids come home to boiled heart for dinner?” he wants to know. “My grandmother lived with us for six years and it was like Thanksgiving every day. She made bread, applesauce and rhubarb and we ate a lot of unconventional foods like oxtail soup, beef tongue and liver and onions. Coming through the hardships of war, she used everything. That exposure piqued my interest in cooking: helping her, watching her and just eating.” Though Muench has never lived or worked outside the state, family visits to Louisiana gave him a bank of food memories to tap in his current employment. “Southern cooking was always on my radar. Southern has the largest cumulative style – barbecue to game to fish.” Muench tried college but was impatient with the pace. MATC’s culinary arts program gave him the opportunity to work in his field while he was getting his degree. “I could see the rewards of working sooner. […]
Jan 1st, 2008
Light my Fire
"Fat is the canvas upon which the flavor flows. It’s the glue that sticks the flavor particles to your tongue,” David Piette, Executive Chef of Sabor Brazilian Churrascaria, avers.
Dec 1st, 2007
When the Banana Leaves Split
North Shore Bistro 8649 N. Port Washington Fox Point, WI 53217 414-351-6100 “Yes, we have no banana leaves. We have no banana leaves today.” This devastating news from his purveyor might have crushed any other chef just hours away from a gala dinner for the prestigious American Culinary Federation. The problem? His showcase dish was to be Polynesian-style triggerfish steamed in banana leaves. Wolf, however, put his thinking toque on and turned potential disaster into a creative opportunity. With the prestidigitation of a master illusionist he came up with the solution: The Milwaukee Zoo! After all, who in the area buys more bananas? Wolf admits he had a moment of sweaty panic, but the Zoo’s contribution saved dinner for some very discerning primates with cultivated palates. A Homestead High School graduate who grew up in Thiensville and Mequon, Wolf was a regular guy into sports, hunting and fishing. Football, wrestling and track were his games. Nothing suggested that he would end up as the Corporate Chef for the high-end NStars Restaurant Group. During high school Wolf was a self-described “Friday Fish Fry Bitch” at a local eatery. [I know the feeling having been a Friday Night Football Pizza Bitch in college myself.] As a teenager, Wolf also worked at the Four Seasons in Mequon – and at Sardi’s. He still gets a dreamy look in his eyes describing Sardi’s beef and chicken spiedini cooked with tomatoes and peppers, simmered until the meat fell off the bone. He studied the gastronomic arts at Johnson and Wales University in Providence, Rhode Island and returned to Milwaukee upon graduating. “After culinary school I worked for Larry’s Brown Deer market. It was a great experience working with such high quality cheeses and imported products.” The young chef then worked at Mike & Anna’s for eight years. “The owner, Tony Harvey,” says Wolf, “created a great environment to learn in. It started out as a 50-seat Northern Italian bistro. Tony’s mother was a blast and his dad was a World War II vet with great stories. As young as I was in this business, I had the opportunity to do whatever I wanted. We had a chalkboard menu that constantly changed: rack of lamb, fois gras, scallops, turbot. Whatever we wanted.” Since Harvey also ran Rent-a-Chef, a catering business, Wolf was left much to his own devices at the restaurant. The North Shore clientele had high expectations and chefs like Scott Sebastian, Patrick Schultz, and Richard Staniszewski consistently met and exceeded them. It was a place for great food in a warm, inviting environment. Wolf recalls Mayor John Norquist, who lived nearby, as a frequent diner. “He’d have his bottle of wine, dinner and then fall asleep there right in his chair — he must have felt very comfortable.” The family feel of the restaurant extended to the little kitchen garden in the back full of herbs, edible flowers, nasturtiums, pansies and tiny roses. The owners of the North Shore Bistro – Michael Tarney, Elias […]
Nov 1st, 2007
The Real Deal
mi • key’s 811 N. Jefferson St Milwaukee 414-273-5397 www.mikeysmilwaukee.com The hospitality industry is rife with nomads. Chefs and hoteliers are like the Bedouin – each job is only a temporary oasis. In this world, Peter Alioto is an anomaly – a man who finds a niche and stays there. If mi • key’s takes off, customers are likely to enjoy Alioto’s cuisine for years to come. Milwaukee native and Whitefish Bay High School graduate Alioto grew up in a large, traditional, close-knit Italian family. Like most Aliotos in Milwaukee, he is related to the restaurant family, although he’s only eaten there once. His family ate at home where food was a focal point for familial confabulations. “I have warm memories of Sundays sitting around the table with my family. It was always pasta,” he recalls. A typical boy, Alioto was into baseball, track and field and wrestling, dreaming of becoming a pilot. It was Denny’s, however, that offered the high schooler a paycheck. You know the menu – it’s not haute cuisine, but the fast-paced environment taught Alioto valuable lessons. “I learned people skills there and how to think on your feet.” His experience at the family style restaurant allowed him to put his 22-year-old foot in the door of one of Milwaukee’s most notable restaurants, Marangelli’s. “When the opportunity presented itself to me, I didn’t know much about (chef/owner) John Marangelli. It was a very high-end Italian restaurant – that’s where my interest in food blossomed.” Alioto started an informal internship which had no official title or pay for the first six months. “With John you had to prove your worth before he would take too much stock in you. I don’t remember how I squeaked by. It required proving myself through repetition. John would have to taste everything. It took about a year before he felt my palate was up to his standards and he began to trust me. As John’s faith in me developed, I quickly moved up to head chef. And after a lot of begging and pleading, I finally got paid.” Marangelli’s Northern Italian continental cuisine opened up oceans of new foods and flavors to the young chef, from imported sea urchin to scampi with fresh mint. “That embodies the whole idea of clean, crisp, fresh flavors – dishes in which you can taste the main ingredients. Many chefs today combine too many flavors instead of bringing the most flavor out of what you’re cooking, developing the flavor so that there’s that wow, that punch.” Alioto stayed with Marangelli for 11 years, through two restaurants, until his last place closed in 1996. He spent the next decade at the Manchester East Hotel managing a demanding food service including restaurants, banquets, meetings, weddings and other social functions. It was a good place to work while raising a family of two children with his wife Lorie. “It was typical American cuisine – steaks, seafood, chops. I missed Marangelli’s and always wanted to get back to the […]
Sep 1st, 2007
Now I’m a believer…
Photos by Kevin C. Groen Hubbard Park Lodge 3565 N. Morris Blvd. Milwaukee, WI 53211 414-332-4207 Christopher Taube, now 28, hated high school. (Who didn’t?) He found it just plain BO-RING. (Who didn’t?) But instead of slogging it out like the rest of us, Taube just didn’t go. But life as a teenage dropout was far from glamorous. Restaurants offered him work – grunt work: shilling for Shoney’s restaurants in a bear suit, cleaning parking lots, dishwashing. These jobs made cooking look real good. And by the age of 15, Taube was doing just that, first for a variety of chain eateries and then as a line cook at Mangia in Kenosha. This taste of fine dining locked this adolescent Taube into a culinary career. Born in South Bend, Indiana, Taube’s family migrated from the Midwest to the Southwest. He spent his youth in Mesa, Arizona, the oldest of five children. “I had a healthy respect for food passed on by my mother – it was a very big part of us being a family together. I’m the cook of the bunch; no one else had interest in pursuing a career in restaurants and frankly I don’t blame them – you have to have a passion for this business or be crazy to work this many hours and do the things you’ve got to do to be successful, but there are those who could only survive in a kitchen.” The Taube family table was laden with All-American comfort foods, not to mention a lot of barbecue. Taube’s grandmother, who was from Tennessee and lived down the street, contributed Southern-style specialties like the iron skillet cornbread and beans that had fueled his coal miner grandfather. Says Taube, “I was always partial to sausage gravy – pour it on eggs and even over bacon. I was the designated sausage gravy guy except at grandma’s house.” Breakfasts were a family project and served as Taube’s training meal. As a kid he was flipping eggs on a flat griddle, learning how to keep the contents in the pan. Still, he considers himself a late bloomer in terms of his fascination with food. “For most of my life, food was a means to an end. Eat it and you’re full. It was not an integral part of my life.” A precocious and outspoken kid, the dropout was a great student, just not in a traditional educational structure. Learning (literally) by fire worked for him. Working a catering gig for Mangia, a bunch of sternos in a hot box exploded into mushroom clouds of black smoke. “There are pictures of me putting my head through a sheet pan. I never thought aluminum could burn like that!” Undaunted, Taube attended the Scottsdale Culinary Institute, a Cordon Bleu program associated with the renowned French academy. “I cooked all morning, went to school at night then got up early to open in the morning again.” No complaints, though. While in school and for a year after graduation, Taube worked […]
Aug 1st, 2007
Forever young
photos by Kevin C. Groen Chip & Py’s 1340 W. Towne Square Road (I43 at Mequon Road) 262-241-9589 Longevity in the restaurant business is a rare, hard-earned reward. Yet Julie and Richard Staniszewski have made the journey to the 25th anniversary of Chip & Py’s seem practically effortless. From the day they opened their doors at their original location on 5th and National in Walker’s Point to the day they popped the silver champagne corks this May, they’ve delivered consistently excellent food, potables and entertainment with a spirit of warm bonhomie that makes every customer feel at home. A quarter of a century ago, Julie Betzhold and her brother, John Herschede, had a partnership interest in the first location’s building. They were forward-thinking, seeing it as a base for casual sophisticates in a neighborhood that had yet to be discovered. The greater real estate plan included loft living and an infrastructure that was 30 years ahead of its time. Back then nobody understood the concept. Their best prospective tenant wanted banjo music and turtle races on the bar. With no disrespect to Bela Fleck, that wasn’t what they had in mind. What did appeal to them was Mike & Anna’s, Tony Harvey’s Southside avant garde gourmet eatery, and its chef, Richard. So they lured him to their project. Richard, now chef/owner of Chip & Py’s, was an unlikely gourmand. Raised in what he calls a “deep blue collar” family near County Stadium, he grew up sneaking in to Braves games. His father was a machine repairman and his mother loved baseball but hated cooking. His first food memory is of thin pork chops his mother fried. Dropping one on the floor, she returned it to the frying pan, explaining to her son, “That one’ll be mine.” But her son was doubtful. “How did she know which one it was?” he wondered, thinking that there must be better food out there somewhere. His favorite treat was smoked chubs, prompting his longtime friend and fish monger, Tim Collins of St. Paul Fish Market, to ask him later, “And did you have shoes?” Upon graduating from Solomon Juneau High School, Staniszewski put in six months at a factory, hating it so much he turned to bartending at Cassidy’s, Barbieri’s and then for Tony Harvey’s Rent-a-Chef Catering, a big player in the North Shore. When Harvey opened Mike and Anna’s on 8th and Rodgers, Richard took the helm of a restaurant that would be Milwaukee’s first casual fine dining bistro. Due to the demands of the North Shore clientele from the catering business, they kicked up the carte with epicurean entrées, and the place took off. Responding to his market is a hallmark of Staniszewski’s business philosophy, coupled with a commitment to value that he took to his own business in 1982. “We talked to everyone we knew and asked what they’d like, gauged their response and put it on menu,” he says. “It was an exciting time – just prior to the downtown […]
Jul 1st, 2007
Let us eat cake!
photos by Kevin C. Groen Cake Lady & Petite Pastries 3561 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. St. Francis 414-294-4220 cakeladydesigns.com Michelangelo fashioned the treasured Statue of David and the Pieta. Rodin gained prominence for his ponderous works, The Thinker and The Kiss. An anonymous artist chiseled out a place in art infamy with the Venus de Milo. None of these renowned sculptors, however, have anything on Sara Unkefer, owner of The Cake Lady and Petite Pastries. Her towering confections are not only artistically impressive, they’re edible! Wedding cakes festooned with elaborate piping, swags, grape clusters and dotted with frosting pearls are her forte. But one of Unkefer’s greatest gifts is her ability to realize her clients’ desires in cake. She has created a wild, teetering tower of silver and gold fondant-wrapped gifts; colorful fish cakes as big as a reeler’s imagined catch; football helmets and cartoon characters. From the kooky and kitschy to the elegant and fabulous, The Cake Lady does it all. The 32-year-old, her husband Briton (a corporate chef) and their toddler son Levi are Bay View residents and the pastry shop is just a couple of blocks away in St. Francis. With their combined experience and reputations, this couple could live and work anywhere, but chose Milwaukee for proximity to both their families. Sara Unkefer grew up in Appleton, one of six kids. Her mother had an artistic streak, expressed in home crafts like Mickey Mouse and Cookie Monster cakes for birthdays and painting ceramics. Unkefer helped paint the intricate Hummel characters and holiday decorations because she had a steady hand, a must in her profession. “I was an adventurous kid,” Unkefer says. “I was very decisive. I knew what I wanted and was willing to put up an argument to get it.” Her parents were a catalyst for her experimental zeal. She instilled the philosophy that nothing’s impossible. “Growing up in a family of six gave us a lot of strength. They taught us to embrace life and not to be sacred to do what we believe in.” Though her parents never traveled beyond Canada, their children all had the wanderlust. Unkefer worked long hours in Door County restaurants summers and falls to finance her exploits. There she met a young woman who brandished photos of herself with Taliban gunmen in Afghanistan. While most people would be terrified by this disclosure, for Unkefer it deepened the intrigue of travel. After a year at UWM studying anthropology, Unkefer set out to experience ethnic traditions in situ. Backpacking by herself, she toured Mexico, Central America, the Carribean, Holland, Spain and Belgium. Fellow travelers introduced Unkefer to diverse culinary traditions. One trekker carried three duffle bags of spices he had collected on his travels. His meals, prepared in a borrowed kitchen or in banana leaves over an open fire, were so amazing they prompted Unkefer to abandon her vegetarian lifestyle. In Guatemala she encountered a man who’d built a wood-fired oven for baking breads and pizza. It was an encounter that […]
Jun 1st, 2007
Watts Tea Shop – 103 years and counting
photos by Kevin C. Groen Watts Tea Shop 761 N. Jefferson Street Milwaukee, WI 53202 414-290-5720 Tom Millot is one of those rare managers who actually wants his employees to learn how to do his job. As Executive Chef of Watts Tea Shop, he fosters leadership qualities in his staff of 14 full and part timers. “I love my staff. They respect what I try to do and the reverse. We have a team concept. We’re always looking to go forward. Besides myself, we have three staffers who can produce any of our baked goods,” he says proudly beaming ear to ear. “You’re only as good as your team.” If Millot sounds like a major league coach, it may be because he’s always been a team player: at home, on the field and in the kitchen. Raised in a family of 11 children, he says, “Everybody pitched in. Sometimes there were too many cooks and not enough elbowroom. We didn’t even fathom eating out, we were so used to eating off the land. We were on a tight budget and that has helped me in my profession. It keeps waste to a minimum and you value everything.” Everyone in the Millot family was expected to be at the dinner table on time. “That was very important for bonding with family. There’s not enough of that [today]. Everybody’s in a hurry to go nowhere fast.” Summers in Hartland, when not doing chores, Millot played baseball in six leagues, several games a day, seven days a week. However, he decided on a career in cooking in his teens and some years later found a lifelong mentor and friend in Louis Danegelis, Senior Chef Instructor at Waukesha County Technical College, where the young chef studied. “He taught me passion. Passion for what I do for my career, with food and more importantly with the people you work with and manage – the culinary team. He taught that the speed of the leader is speed of the team.” “Cross train yourself and your employees. Having an employee adept at doing any job duty within your framework, giving them a sense and feeling of leadership, that’s what he taught me and I try to pass that on.” Millot did double duty with Danegelis, studying by day and working nights and weekends at his catering company, Lee John’s. “He instilled confidence in me and helped me overcome my doubts. I have no fear of failure. Louis said when the pressure’s on, the only thing you can do is pin your ears back, pray and go for it and you will get through the day.” It was advice Millot has applied throughout his career from working as Corporate Chef at QuadGraphics to opening the Union House in Genesee Depot. As a result of this attitude, Millot can not only stand the heat in the kitchen, he thrives on it. “I want to get slammed, otherwise you don’t make any money. Titles aside, when everyone works together, they […]
May 1st, 2007
Kawoomph!
Photos by Kevin C. Groen Mason Street Grill 425 East Mason Street 414-298-3131 www.masonstreetgrill.com Kawoomph” is the term Mark Weber coined to describe the explosive sound brandy makes as it hits a searing pan of steak au poivre. Mason Street Grill adopted it as the name for its logo: a steer with a chicken hat and flying fish grazing its shoulders representing the breadth of its offerings. Under Weber’s stewardship as Managing Director, the Pfister Hotel’s new flagship restaurant is now at street level and accessible to diverse customers. If you’re with friends, settle into the comfortable leather chairs and banquettes for a memorable feast. Solo diners can pony up to the kitchen counter where they’ll find company watching all the action through the pass. Dinner fare ranges from an exquisite herb-crusted New York Strip steak at $48.50 to a grilled hot dog bun crammed with lobster salad for just $16.50. Steaks come with salad and a side (like the inspired fresh creamed spinach scented with nutmeg) and sandwiches include fries or gingered cabbage slaw. The crispy cracker-crusted pizzas (all under $10) topped with tomatoes and fresh herbs taste like summer. The vanilla-flecked cheesecake is light as mousse. And with a Kenwood Yulumpa Brut for $6.50 a glass, even I, a pauper writer, can afford it. Those who have followed Weber’s luminous career from Arby’s (!) to the Riversite to his own restaurant, WaterMark, would not be surprised by his current appointment, for his cookery is inspired in any setting. He’s received great critical acclaim, but none greater than that of French Novelle Cuisine innovator Paul Bocuse. Among classically trained culinarians, Bocuse (not Emeril or any other TV celebrities) reigns as pope. Thus, it was like Da Vinci honoring a protégé when Bocuse himself complimented a meal Weber had prepared for him at Lake Park Bistro as the closest to his own cuisine that he had ever tasted. He was bred for the food and beverage industry. The chef’s ancestors were brewers in Germany who brought their trade to the U.S. His great grandfather worked for Pabst and his great uncle Clem, as a Miller Brewing VP, brought Lite beer and Lowenbrau to the brand. With thumb and forefinger a couple inches apart, Weber says, “We had our own kiddy mugs this big as long as I can remember.” Weber grew up in Rochester, New York, where his father was a VP for French’s Mustard. The position involved a lot of entertaining that opened portals of extensive gustatory experimentation for his son. Weekends and vacations were spent at the family vineyard in nearby Canandaigua where there was work for all seasons. Three years into an engineering degree at Monmouth College, Weber was bored stiff and left. By then, his parents had moved to Mequon and after a few weeks on their couch Weber ventured out to find employment. He put in a desultory application at the Midway Motor Lodge’s fine dining restaurant, Café Manhattan, hoping they wouldn’t call. “I had […]
Apr 1st, 2007
Céad mile fáilte
By Catherine McGarry Miller + Photos by Kevin C. Groen Be forewarned; if you toddle over to County Clare on St. Paddy’s day for an Irish Coffee, have your designated driver on deck or cab fare in fist before you take a swig. Oh, there might me a shot or two of coffee in it, but the rest is pure Irish whiskey slathered with whipped cream and a chocolate cookie straw. One sip’ll knock your shamrock off. Roy Huth, kitchen manager of the County Clare Pub and Restaurant, says that natives of the Emerald Isle “feel at home here. Milwaukeeans feel like they’re on vacation.” I fall in the latter category and can aver that this establishment credibly recreates the charm of an Irish inn. Though Irish cookery is not renowned in the gourmet kingdom, I had fabulous food in Ireland and the County Clare made me feel like I was back in the old country. His menu reflects wonderful dining experiences I had there, though probably not the way you would expect. It’s the seafood that takes me back to the sod, not the corned beef or lamb – I don’t remember even seeing them on a carte. What people tend to forget is that Ireland is an island whose inhabitants have always lived off the water. Though not of Irish descent, Huth has a mastery of seafood preparation that goes back to his youth cooking for his family. The Wauwatosa native always enjoyed trying new things and particularly liked smoked fish – not your average kid’s top favorite. His specialty back then was Shrimp Creole. Now he applies his intuitive talents to the likes of smoked salmon with capers and mussels steamed in a buttery tomato broth served with Irish brown bread to sop the delicious juices. The portions, like Irish hospitality, are generous and the flavors fresh as a sea breeze. The whole grained bread (available in small loaves to purchase) is exactly as I remember it in the Irish inns and cafes I frequented. Not surprising, since it’s imported from there. For St. Patrick’s Day, however, the menu will feature the expected Irish fare: Shepherd’s Pie (the Inn’s top seller), Irish Stew and Corned Beef and Cabbage. Huth presents a delicious, colorful plate of thick slices of lean, tender corned beef, al dente cabbage, bright carrot medallions and notably delicious mashed potatoes. Everything but the steak is under $15, so you’ll have plenty of change for your stout. Huth, who just turned 50, learned his craft on the job. His degree from UWM, earned in the early ‘80s, is in painting, drawing and printmaking. His father, a lithographer, planted the seeds of love for the craft. Huth became a successful artist whose works have been exhibited around the city for the past 15 years and at annual shows at Gallery H2O in the Third Ward. In 1999, one of his paintings was juried into the prestigious Wisconsin Artists’ Biennial Exhibit at the Haggerty Museum. Still, art […]
Mar 1st, 2007
Hat Trick – Third time’s a charm for Al and Susie Brkich
By Catherine McGarry Miller + Photos by Kevin C. Groen Cranky Al’s Bakery, Coffee & Pizza 6901 W. North Avenue 414-258-5282 Hey, Mikey, I got your pizza ready,” Cranky Al Brkich hails a customer. “I only dropped it twice!” Mikey shrugs his shoulders and smirks, “That’s better ‘n last time.” There’s a round of giggles from patrons steaming up the windows at Cranky Al’s this winter night with animated conversations over pizzas and garlic bread. I’m not one to go around outing people, but the truth is Cranky Al is a phony. He’s about as cranky as Rachel Ray accepting applause for yet another miracle recipe. A small warning sign on the door hints at Al’s true nature. It reads, “All unattended children will be given two shots of espresso and a free puppy.” Al is loath to admit it, but “cranky” actually references the hand-cranked donuts he turns out every morning for lines of neighborhood enthusiasts. For owners Susie and Al Brkich, this bakery and pizzeria is a hat trick. They’ve had two other successful eateries. The first was Crabby Al’s, a seafood shack that lit up the dark skies of the Menomonee Valley and then tumbled into a dissolved partnership. Second was Mrs. Java and Company, just four doors down from the new Cranky Al’s, which died last year when the building was sold to another restaurateur who wanted the space for a bistro. The news was sudden and devastating to the couple, who had hoped to buy the building themselves. “We didn’t know if our customers would come back,” Susie says with her chin crumbling and eyes moist with deep appreciation for the support of the community. It took the Brkichs the better part of a year – and every penny of their resources – to relocate, gut the property and install a kitchen in two storefronts that had formerly housed a used auto parts and a vacuum cleaner store. It was a stressful time for the Brkichs, not knowing if their new enterprise would fly. But just a few months into it, this place has all the signs of being yet another success for the hard-working restaurateurs. High windows fill the spacious room with light, the dark woodwork, molded ceilings and pews from Pius X Church – which serve as bench seating – all lend an air of comfortable charm, as do the smells of fresh-brewed coffee and handmade donuts and pastries. This, as everything in their lives, is a joint venture. After two decades of marriage, Al and Susie are still thick as thieves. Al insisted that Susie be there for our interview and every time Al got up during our chat to attend to the business, Susie gushed about him. For their opening in December, she bought him his first chef’s coat. “Same old Cranky with a new coat on,” he boasts. “That’s right, kid, I’m fancy now.” Al, who grew up near State Fair Park and attended Solomon Juneau High School, met Chicago […]
Feb 1st, 2007
Down on the farm with David Swanson
The doughboy ditty that poses the question, “How you gonna keep them down on the farm after they’ve seen Paree?” has a simple answer for Chef David Swanson. It’s where the food is. Swanson has seen and studied in “Paree.” His many culinary credits include a degree from Kendall College in Evanston, Illinois, and employment with renowned chefs Roland Liccioni, Pierre Polin, Don Yamauchi and Sanford D’Amato. Still, his focus is on the farm. He is a slow food activist, basing all his creations on locally-produced, in-season foods. His recipes are parochial in foundation and if a food is not in season, he will not plate it. Swanson is entranced with ingredients, their provenance, their chemistry and their possibilities. An inquisitive child, he pulled apart every toy he ever got to see its base components and how it worked. In the kitchen, he peppered his mother and grandmother with questions. Babysitters were forewarned that it was normal for David to play in the kitchen, stirring up concoctions, not necessarily edible. Fortunately, his curiosity was welcomed and encouraged. It is the basis of everything he does. Swanson’s educational and professional training has imbued him with a deep understanding of and appreciation for classic French cuisine. Starting as a dishwasher at 15, he worked through every station of the kitchen at Le Titi de Paris, Le Français and Sanford – Midwestern restaurants with national reputations. His time in Paris was short but pivotal. Working sessions at Le Cordon Bleu and a stage at local restaurants (working free for the opportunity to learn), he found a food philosophy that matched his own. “In American kitchens, everything revolves around the chef. In France, there is a reverence for the ingredients. Everything starts from that point, and the chef is just a cog in the wheel.” When Swanson came north to work at Sanford, Milwaukee was not even a blip on the culinary map. But he came anyway, and it was a fortuitous move. “Sanford was finishing school for me. Sandy D’Amato is a fabulous chef and I had worked with a lot of great chefs, but didn’t have my own identity. Coming to Sanford I found out who I was as a chef and became comfortable in my own skin.” After six years there, Swanson left to establish his own enterprise: Braise. The traveling cooking school he currently operates is actually phase 3 of a 5-part business plan that includes opening a restaurant in the Greater Milwaukee area. The restaurant was to come first, but Swanson is still engrossed in the complex process of finding a location for his project. He takes his road show to farms, open markets, breweries and local food providers several times a month, with classes that range from $45 to $80 for a multi-course extravaganza. The night after the first big blizzard of 2006, 16 inchoate chefs slogged through foot-deep slush to attend Swanson’s class. At long wooden tables in the kitchen of Wild Flour Bakery, the students purge […]
Jan 1st, 2007
Harmony in contradiction
By Catherine McGarry Miller forty8 head chef Adam Swatloske, former high school linebacker, perennial Packers fan and rock music junkie, is the type of guy you’d expect to see warming a regular’s stool at the bar where he works. He’d never even tasted anything you’d call gourmet until he was 17 and got his first restaurant job at Eddie Martini’s washing dishes. Now, just seven lucky years later, he’s turning out food that’s tantalizing epicureans around town. Swatloske didn’t come from a family of foodies. His mother, who manages diagnostic imaging at St. Francis Hospital, was lost in the kitchen. “Mom and I joke about it,” her son says with a grin. “I got into cooking ‘cause she couldn’t and one of us had to do it. She made some damn good cookies, though.” “School was my deficit,” the Catholic Memorial alum admits. “I was good at cooking, football and partying. I’m not one to sit in an office; I need to be doing something. I’m high energy, but I also love my sleep.” Swatloske’s conversation today is peppered with highfalutin’ phrases like “food profiles,” but having grown up on tacos and lasagna, he’s still a fan of comfort food. “It’s all about making you feel good.” Andy Stiyer, then Executive Chef at Eddie Martini’s, showed a very green Swatloske the ropes. “Starting at a restaurant like that, you learn what good food really is or you don’t last,” he says. Stiyer’s Orange Peppercorn Beurre Blanc served with Ahi Tuna inspired his protégé with the sweetness and tang of the citrus accented with hot Sichuan pepper. Swatloske says, “I build my dish around the sauce instead of making the sauce for a dish.” After a long apprenticeship at Eddie Martini’s, Swatloske jockeyed about area restaurants. “A friend of mine who was at forty8 said he needed a hand,” he says. It was a perfect fit. “Every time you walk in you feel like you’re being hugged – you can wear whatever. I did the corporate thing, but it’s not really my style.” When his friend quit this past summer, Swatloske gladly took over the kitchen. Several months later, sous chef Ian Somerville, who is currently finishing his culinary program at MATC, joined the team. Adam Swatloske has the excited glow of youth as he describes his job. “We have complete freedom to make menu changes, to go to the farmers market. We leave entrees open for seasonal accents that change regularly. I like mixing sweet and savory in sauces. I like the crispness of fried won ton chips and the crust on our risotto cakes. Ian’s just the opposite. He likes smooth, creamy soups and purees. His cakes are nice and rich.” The back of the house at forty8 is a brotherhood of sorts. There are five in the kitchen including cook Jesus Almazon and Jesse and Juan, who are brothers. Swatloske calls Almazon his own personal Jesus. He’s the happiest, nicest guy. He’s always back there singing. He just […]
Dec 1st, 2006
Caribbean cowboy
By Catherine McGarry Miller + photos by Kevin C. Groen At 19, Montana native Michael Morton was a mosh pit punk who also briefly studied art in Missoula. “I’d be hard-pressed to tell you what I was trying to say,” he admits of his found-object constructions. “I was young and trying to make statements, but was probably naïve, misinformed and shallow.” Growing up in Montana, Morton experienced home on the range and its wide open spaces. He spent much of his youth exploring the woods near his Helena home, rooting around deserted mines and abandoned shacks. An avid fan of grunge and industrial music, Morton in 1993 joined the “Montana Mafia,” slang for the mass migration of young Montanans to Seattle for the music scene and city life. Having worked in delis as a teenager, he cooked to finance his clubbing. “I learned to work fast – whatever you do, do it fast. I had a string of deli jobs and never diversified my portfolio.” His first job in Seattle at a high volume kosher deli taught the unruly youngster a lot about interacting with the public and conforming to strict kosher dietary laws. Later Chef Walter Pisano of Tulio Ristorante took a very green Morton, with an admittedly bad attitude, and mentored him into a reluctant professional. “This was the real deal,” Morton smiles, remembering. “I had just enough experience to get in the door. I’d worked in such undisciplined kitchens. This was my first real professional kitchen where I learned technique, presentations and vocabulary: about quality in food.” Under Pisano’s tutelage, Morton’s long locks gave way to a military coif and he calmed down enough to learn his craft. Risotto was a real trial. “It’s really good when done correctly, but there’s no way to fake it or hide. The trick to risotto is cooking it very slowly and to never walk away from it.” The lessons Pisano imbued stay with Morton. “He said, ‘You should taste everything but you should taste nothing,’ which means that you should be able to taste all the ingredients that contribute to a dish, but nothing should overwhelm it. He also talked about the ‘face of food.’ Looking at a plate you should be able to see all the ingredients. Like in a sausage, each ingredient should be in every bite and in proper proportion.” Friend John Dye lured Morton to Milwaukee in 2001 to work at Hi Hat as a cook. “Brunch had the volume and intensity of serving people who were hung over and hadn’t had their morning coffee yet. You spend six hours in a 120-degree box and you’re either going to kill each other or have a really good time.” Hi Hat Executive Chef Matt Post introduced him to the nuts and bolts of the business: costing, inventory management and processing employee paperwork. This summer, DJ and Cassie Brooks, who’d worked with Morton at the Hi Hat, hired him on as chef of their own new restaurant, Good […]
Nov 1st, 2006
Stacia Van de Loo storms Vucciria
By Catherine McGarry Miller + photos by Kevin C. Groen Stacia Van de Loo came into the world in a Trans Am hurtling down Highway 57. “I was almost born in a bowling alley, but Mom pushed me back up and gave birth going 120, headed for a small clinic in Adell (pop. 517). I think it was for humans,” Van de Loo says in a questioning tone. “I was blue when the doctor whisked me away, leaving my mom in the car. Someone asked her, ‘Patsy, you OK?’ and she said, ‘Can I have a cigarette now?’” Vucciria’s right-hand person and creative innovator to manager Maria Megna has kept on her fast and independent streak through life. The thin, willowy Van de Loo looks like she often forgets to eat, which is probably true. To watch her at work is to witness a human tornado whose wake is littered with inspired creations, sometimes culinary deconstructions, but never disaster. She grew up in the small resort town of Elkhart Lake with her single mom. “My first remembrance of food is of standing below the table watching my mother cutting a cucumber on a wooden board. She cut the skin off and sprinkled it with salt. It made a pop and sang on my tongue. I realized that the addition of one small thing, like a spice, could change the taste dramatically.” Frequently left to her own devices, she experimented with whatever culinary opportunities presented themselves. Her first recipe was a peanut butter marshmallow sandwich with chocolate chips melted by the heat of the toast. Van de Loo made even the prosaic childhood staple of mac ‘n cheese her own by whisking butter into the dry cheese to make it creamier. On a visit to Milwaukee at the age of six, Van de Loo was awestruck by the elegance of a small corner restaurant. “The black and white polka-dotted napkins were folded into wine glasses and a counter was glowing in the background. I knew right then that it was what I wanted to have as a business some day. That was Mimma’s. It was a diamond in the rough when the rest of Brady Street was really raw and gritty and here was this beautiful, highly-designed place.” In the intervening years before Van de Loo would come to work at Mimma’s sister, Vucciria, she entered the restaurant world by way of dishwashing at the age of 12. By 13, she was waiting tables at a small eaterie and soon thereafter joined the kitchen staff. As a child, Van de Loo created intricate sculptures in cheese by folding, stacking and arranging the slices. Art and food became the critical intersection of her life. She continued working in various breweries and bistros through her college years at the Milwaukee Institute of Art and Design where she majored in sculpture and interior architecture. There she became a master of mixed media. “I use whatever the idea needs – everything […]
Oct 1st, 2006
Casablanca
By Catherine McGarry Miller + photos by Kevin C. Groen Christmas carols aside, Jerusalem is not currently known for its harmony. But for Jesse Musa, chef and owner of Casablanca, it was a place that lived up to its Hebraic name: �yerusha shalem,� or heritage of peace. Musa recalls his hometown as a pleasant, beautiful city where he and his family enjoyed a comfortable lifestyle. �My family was Muslim. We went to public school with Christians and Muslims together. There was no difficulty,� he recalls, �because everyone grew up together in the same neighborhood. We didn�t see any difference between Muslims and Christians. We all believed in God. I didn�t see the differences until I came here [to the United States].� Musa avoids the conflict by viewing the news like a dieter looks at dessert: a monthly indulgence at best. Musa�s father and grandfather owned a restaurant and pastry shop. From the age of 10, Musa helped his father after school. �It [cooking] was something secure that I could make a living on and I love it. I�m happy with my job � it�s lots of hours but I enjoy it.� In 1971, at the age of 20, Musa came to the United States with his father and worked for several years at the Syrian Bakery in Chicago before moving to Milwaukee where several of his older brothers had already settled. Musa ran a couple of neighborhood groceries before opening the Sahara Inn on Mitchell Street in 1987, which he later renamed Casablanca. Musa built his menu on the rich tradition of Middle Eastern recipes perfected by his father and grandfather. Lunchtimes, Musa served a large vegetarian buffet with lentil soup, falafel, a dozen salads, five or six hot entrees and baklava for dessert. I generally don�t recommend buffets, which too often rely on mass quantities of mediocre food, but Musa�s cornucopia of fresh and flavorful delights has always been an exception for me. Throughout his years in business, Musa maintained consistently high quality food at reasonable prices. His lamb and chicken dishes are excellent. Once a friend of mine and I each enjoyed his Lamb Kifta Kabob so much, we ordered a third one to share. �I am very patient with food,� Musa muses. �I give it the time it needs to be cooked, I don�t rush my food. Maybe it takes more time, but it has to be right.� And it is. In 1993, Musa moved to Oakland Avenue in Shorewood, but by 1996, he was back in his original location on Mitchell Street. His customers happily followed his peripatetic business. Three years ago, Musa retired and closed his much-loved restaurant. That might have been the happy ending to a success story if it were not for his children. Musa�s son Alla said, �I tried Middle Eastern [food] everywhere while father was closed but found nothing like my father�s cooking. Maybe I�m prejudiced, but � we grew up in the restaurant business. Dad had a great reputation and […]
Jan 1st, 2006
Talkin’ Turkey with Brian Moran
By Catherine McGarry Miller Chef Brian Moran makes everything oh-so-simple and delicious. Moran’s recipe for a perfect turkey dinner? Buy your bird fresh from the butcher. Lavish it with aromatic vegetables (carrots, celery and onions), adorn it with sage and thyme, sprinkle on a bit of salt and a generous grind of black pepper. Bake until the thermometer reads 170 degrees, et voila! Dinner! Balance is his byword. As a chef, Moran juggles flavors, textures, seasonings and customers’ needs. As a man of 46, he has created a harmonic blend of career, family, community service and recreation. Moran has been under the radar for much of his career in Milwaukee. As Executive Chef for the Milwaukee Club for 15 years, he was cherished by members and respected within the culinary community, but little known to the public. Now he’s stepping onto center stage, as chef for the St. Paul Fish Co. at the Milwaukee Public Market and teaching cooking classes for the Market’s Traffic Jam series. The Green Bay native has always had a passion for cooking. The fifth of eleven children, he marvels at his mother’s cookery and credits his parents’ strict but fair upbringing with his success. “I loved my mom’s cooking and still do,” he says. “She had German parents so I found that cuisine likable and easy to learn. The smells and aromas of her kitchen stay with me.” From his mother, he learned to love hearty comfort foods and to use lots of fresh vegetables to stretch a dish and a dollar. After high school, Moran went straight into the business. He washed dishes, bussed tables, bartended and even operated a fork lift in a giant freezer for eight hours a night. Seeing a chef’s tall white hat in the kitchen at work one night flipped a switch in his head: cooking was the career for him. He worked in restaurants while attending Fox Valley Technical College’s culinary arts program. His breadth of experience in the food industry created professional opportunities upon graduation, first in Green Bay and later in Milwaukee, where he moved in the mid-1980s. Moran has worked with some of Milwaukee’s top toques: Edouard Becker of the English Room, caterer Scott Shully, Sanford’s Sandy D’Amato and Jerry Malinowski of the Wisconsin Club. When he took the Milwaukee Club executive chef position in the late 1980s, the glove fit so well he wore it for the next decade and a half. The daily breakfast, lunch and dinner service kept him very busy, but weekends off were a plus for this devoted family man. “Club chefs work under the discerning eye of members who travel all over the world and eat at high-end restaurants so they expect a lot,” Moran explains. “I think I met their expectations.” He brought the club’s menu into the 20th century and beyond with lighter, healthier adaptations of traditional favorites – like substituting salmon for corned beef in hash. He also became renowned for his soups and seafood savvy. […]
Dec 1st, 2005
Around the World and Back Again
By Catherine McGarry Miller Bacchus is a place for celebrations. Its wall of 230 wines encased in elegant glass and chrome is a nod to the restaurant’s namesake, the god of wine. It is not, however, a dipsomaniac’s domain. Bacchus exudes class from its carte to its cultivated customers. Executive Chef Adam Siegal started, surprisingly, in the hot dog business at his stepfather’s Chicago area Red Hot huts. As a boy, Siegal stocked shelves, chopped vegetables, and bussed tables. He still likes a good hot dog – an all beef Hebrew National “run through the garden” – dog talk for topped with every veggie in the joint. Since then, Siegal has graduated to ultra-fine dining with a degree from the Culinary School of Kendall College in Evanston, Illinois, and has apprenticed under some of the world’s greatest gastronomes: At the age of 20, Siegal launched his career at Paul Bartolotta’s renowned Chicago bistro, Spiaggia. There he learned “the simplicity of cooking the way Italians cook. I learned technique to taste,” he recalls. He studied directly under the James Beard Award-winning chef, now Bacchus’ co-owner with brother Joe. “Paul’s been my mentor for 14 years and I don’t think I could have a better one. He’s helped me throughout my whole career.” For two years, Siegal explored classical French cuisine under the tutelage of Chef Julian Serrano, also a winner of the James Beard Award and executive chef of Masataka Kobayashi’s celebrated French restaurant, Masa’s, in San Francisco. “The food was classical yet very modern. It was a very intense kitchen, which suited me because I’m a very intense individual with an intense passion for cooking.” In 1998, Paul Bartolotta arranged an internship for Siegal with his own mentor, Valentino Marcetilli, chef at Ristorante San Domenico in Imola near Bologna, Italy. For Siegal, it was a year-long immersion in European cookery where he acquired an appreciation for where the food came from, the traditions behind it, and the Europeans’ passion for dining. “Their lives revolve around food. They sit at the table for two to three hours – it’s how they enjoy life.” He also helped Marcetilli achieve a Two Star Michelin rating. Back stateside, Siegal joined the team that popped the cork on the D.C. branch of Todd English’s lauded Olives restaurant. He didn’t see much of the celebrity chef, but he experienced the initiation of a national high-end restaurant. He also met his future wife, Daria, who was Olives’ manager. The spin at Olives was Mediterranean, but emphasized “taking the traditional and making it not traditional,” Siegal explains. In 2000, the executive sous chef position opened up at Bartolotta’s Lake Park Bistro, so Siegal happily returned to the Midwest. “I love Milwaukee – it’s a kind of hidden treasure. People always think of “Laverne and Shirley,” but there’s all this charm and character to the city.” He later took over chef Mark Weber’s toque and recently added Bacchus to his realm of responsibilities. With the diversity of Siegal’s culinary […]
Nov 1st, 2005
Crazy Water Shines
By Catherine McGarry Miller Crazy Water 839 S. 2nd St. 414-645-2606 Dinner 7 days a week, 5-9 p.m.; Fri. and Sat. until ten Culinary performance artist Peggy Magister plays nightly in the window of her popular Walker’s Point restaurant, Crazy Water. She’s on stage more and closer to her audience than most Broadway stars. If I were in her clogs, I’m sure some choice expletives would escape now and then. “I do swear,” she admits. “You just can’t hear it over the fan!” Besides, she continues, “there’s really no one to swear at – the people I work with are too good. I like working in the open – I get to see what’s happening out front and get immediate feed back because I’m not removed from what’s happening.” The Milwaukee native was inspired by her mother’s home cooking, and as a girl started baking cinnamon and sugar pastry cookies from her mother’s pie dough scraps. She enjoyed duplicating fancy desserts from magazine covers, like caramelized walnut tortes and pastry shell jewel baskets bursting with fruit. By high school, Magister was hosting elaborate dinner parties for family and friends. “I subscribed to Bon Appetit. I have all of them and pull them out all the time. That’s how I learned to cook – mostly from magazines.” Magister studied business at Boston University and then completed a degree in nursing at Marquette. After working for five years as a nurse in Seattle, her mother died and she moved back to Milwaukee to be near her father. It was then that the would-be chef began administering to customers through their taste buds instead of I.V.s. A job at La Boulangerie was a vocational turning point. “I had no cooking skills whatsoever,” Magister says. “(Owners) Lynn and Dale Rhyan gave me my palate. Lynn, a classically trained chef, took me under her wing and taught me everything. She taught me how to taste something – that’s what I think is so important. There are tons of restaurants that are busy, but there not tons that have great food. Many chefs can do basics, but if you don’t have a palate, it’s like painting with technique but no sense of color.” The experience whetted Magister’s appetite for culinary education. She got her degree from the California Culinary Academy in San Franciso and on-the-job experience at Wolfgang Puck’s Postrio. Though the famed gastronome was rarely in attendance, she got valuable training in all aspects of cookery from butchery to bakery. Both homesick and wanting to make a mark in her field, Magister again returned to Milwaukee. Chip ‘N Py’s offered her the perfect opportunity. “I wanted a job with more responsibilities and didn’t want to start at the bottom. Chip ‘N Py’s was looking for a lead lunch cook to plan a menu, cost it out and implement it.” There she met Tony Betzhold, who became her business partner. Together, they launched a catering business and, later, The Fork restaurant in Cedarburg. Since then, the […]
Oct 1st, 2005
The Sauce Guru of the Fifth Ward
By Catherine McGarry Miller Dion Willis is something of a rarity in today’s world: he’s happy. Barclay’s Executive Chef is a contented family man who loves his job and is so confident in his own abilities that he’ll take on all comers. Although Barclay Gallery and Garden Café in the “Fifth Ward” (Walker’s Point to some of us) is new to the restaurant scene-and owner John LeBrun’s first-Willis has 20 years of cooking experience under his belt. As a youngster, his first kitchen experiment was preparing a pork chop dinner for his mother. But his “real” culinary career started at 15 with a dishwashing job at Chi Chi’s. “I came up through the school of hard knocks” he says of his culinary education. By 16, he’d moved up to the position of appetizer cook and his interest in food blossomed: “I love just grabbing everything and coming up with anything good.” He puts the emphasis on good. You could call him an excitable boy – he seems electrified by his culinary adventures and inventions. A native Milwaukeean, Willis grew up on the city’s North side in a restaurant family – his mother and father ran a George Webb’s at 91st and Carmen for most of their adult lives. At home, his father ran the kitchen: “Dad was the cook [in the family] – Southern, soul food, ribs, chicken, Midwest, everything.” He graduated from Greendale High School, where he played defensive end for the school’s football team. During this time, he put away a lot of pizza and still considers Italian food his favorite. Training under his hero Bob Zappatelli at Zappa’s Restaurant on Silver Spring was an excellent proving ground for Willis. There, Willis developed his proficiency in Mediterranean cookery and complex sauces. The turning point in his career came when he made a curried chicken dish better than the head chef: Willis knew then that he was well on his way. After Zappa’s, he has worked in the main kitchen at Potawatomi Bingo Casino, home of the lauded Dream Dance and Bya wi se nek Buffet, and two years ago was the first chef at Swank, “the posh eatery” on Water Street. At Barclay’s, Willis started as Sous Chef, but was promoted to Executive Chef within the first week. “We had faith in him and loved his enthusiasm,” owner LeBrun avers with pride. Willis returns the compliment. “I start with the boss man and if he likes it, I make it.” In his own role as boss, Wills is laid back. In his kitchen of ten chefs, one mistake is not enough to banish the Sous Chef to Siberia. Perhaps that’s why many of his Swank staff followed him to Barclay’s. “I’m always smiling. I have the drive to put out good food. I get high on the positive comments and respect constructive criticism.” Willis enhanced the menu created by Barclay’s owners: Buffalo wings for LeBrun’s daughter Laura; sweet & sour chicken without breading for his daughter Sara’s gluten-free […]
Dec 1st, 2004
Not So Fast – Slow Food at Sticks & Stones
By Catherine McGarry Miller Britton Unkefer cooks in the slow lane, which isn’t to say he’s pokey. As head chef of Sticks and Stones in Brookfield, he serves between 120 and 200 customers expeditiously six nights a week. Rather, Unkefer is a devotée of the Slow Food movement, the idea behind which is to stop and smell the roses, or in food talk, slow down and smell the chicken (or whatever’s on your plate). Sparked by the 1986 opening of the first McDonald’s in Rome, journalist Carlo Petrini founded the movement to save regional food cultures from homogenization by promoting food appreciation, preserving culinary traditions and using local and seasonal organic products. Chef Unkefer applies these principles at Sticks and Stones, employing locally-sourced foods, adapting his menu to seasonal fare, promoting these ideas with his staff and creating an atmosphere that engenders conviviality. “I love the artistry of cooking, but when it comes down to it, it’s food. And what counts the most is where it’s coming from and the quality when it comes in your door.” Unkefer came to the culinary arts through his family. At thirteen, he began working at the family restaurant, Nelsen’s Hall on Washington Island, which served a country French menu, with his mother at the helm in the kitchen and his father managing the front. In college, Unkefer toyed briefly with the idea of medical school, but found his true calling closer to his roots. Trained at New England Culinary Institute in Essex, Vermont and the Domino Carlton Tivoli Hotel and Business School in Lucerne, Switzerland, he cut his teeth at Wolfgang Puck’s Postrio, the Columbia Gorge Hotel in Hood River, Oregon and the Paper Valley Hotel in Appleton, Wisconsin. Chef Unkefer’s menu requires the freshest, most natural ingredients available. For the Roasted Chicken dish, Dominion Valley Farms of Allenton provides pasture-raised chicken “where they eat what they’re supposed to,” which ramps up both flavor and nutritional value. It’s roasted with just sea salt and pepper and served with a sauce made from pan drippings. “We keep it pretty simple” says Unkefer. “More and more I try to do that with a lot of the things on the menu – just let the true flavors come through.” One taste and I could see why this rich, moist chicken is a customer favorite. There’s an emphasis on local ingredients. Carr Valley Cheese of La Valle provides the Cocoa Cardona, a complex hard goat cheese with unsweetened cocoa rind. The elegant aged Stravecchio parmesan from Antigo Cheese Company graces Umkefer’s signature risottos (“some of the best risotto you’re going to get anywhere, even though we’re not Italian”). Menomonie’s Sweetland Farms supplies the two-year-old undyed cheddar made from organic grass-fed Jersey cows. The Scottish Highlands beef comes from Fountain Prairie just north of Madison. But occasionally, Unkefer’s high standards demand products that are only available from a distance, like the $6 per pound French butter he insists on using for the risotto and for finishing his sauces. […]
Nov 1st, 2004
Tenuta’s a Hit in Bay View
By Catherine McGarry Miller “It was either the job or get married. I chose the job,” says Tenuta chef Frank Alia who picked a culinary career over wedded bliss. To do both would lead to divorce, he admits, and cooking is a zeal bred from his Southern Calabrese Italian heritage. After a short stint as dishwasher in one of his uncle’s Kenosha restaurants, Alia began cooking in earnest at just 16 years-old. His pride is in doing the job right. “Anyone can follow a recipe but [the outcome] depends upon the kind of passion you put into a dish – I love making a product that people really enjoy,” he says with great delight. Alia honed his skills with lots of practice. “I listened to a lot of good chefs, went to school [Cooking and Hospitality Institute of Chicago (CHIC)], and wasn’t really afraid to make mistakes.” And as all young chefs, mistakes he made. Once, he made a real doozy, ordering his staff to cook raviolis for forty people, only to realize halfway through the painstaking process that the party was the next evening. “It made a nice employee meal, but I don’t make too many mistakes now,” he says grinning. Alia’s cooking philosophy is true to his Italian heritage. He seasons his dishes with a simple palette of salt, pepper and oregano, roasted garlic and vegetables and vinegars of all kinds. “I use Balsamic vinegar as a base and infuse it with various flavors: raspberry, lemon and sometimes honey like an Italian sweet sour.” The house vinaigrette is so good a bottle of it sits on each table for bread dipping as well as for dressing salads. For Alia, the key to gastronomic success is to start with the freshest ingredients available. Gnocchi all’ Fungi is Alia’s specialty and a dish he loves to recommend. “The gnocchis are made by hand made fresh. The Alfredo sauce is light and creamy, not pasty or heavy. It’s velvety on the tongue.” Alia himself prepares the daily specials and makes the foccacia bread. All specials, pizzas and sauces are made-to-order. Italian loaves are purchased from Canfora Bakery. “We use as many local purveyors as we can – it’s good for business,” Another local business, Battaglia, makes Italian sausage for the restaurant using Tenuta’s own recipe. Desserts, including the popular Tiramisu and Chocolate Godiva Cheesecake are made from scratch. As with any job, there are occupational obstacles to overcome. For Tenuta’s, it is a snug cooking area. “I’m afraid to measure the kitchen, it’s so small,” Alia says with a smile. No more that 25’ by 18,’ equipment is packed in cheek to jowl. The chefs must perform a nightly ballet choreographed between several small prep areas and the ovens, broaster, fryer, steam table and six-burner stove. With all the coolers and freezers in the basement, Alia estimates that he makes a hundred trips a day, which keep him slender enough to navigate his tight quarters. The Bay View Tenuta’s is the […]
Oct 1st, 2004
