New Documentary Highlights Milwaukee Chef

The Oriental Theatre, 2230 N. Farwell Ave., on July 13. Photo by Sophie Bolich.

Across more than three decades in the restaurant industry, chef Gregory León has juggled cross-country moves, high-stress openings, James Beard Award nominations and the uncertainties of a global pandemic. Through it all, one thing has remained constant: slicing onions.

Humble Kitchen, a new documentary from TODOS Media centered on León’s life and career, begins there.

In its opening scene, the short film shows León in a chef coat and apron prepping shallots behind the counter at his downtown restaurant, Amilinda. The kitchen is silent save for the rhythmic sound of his knife against the cutting board.

From there, the film alternates between bustling farmers markets, crowded dinner parties and meditative scenes of León working alone in his tiny kitchen. That contrast becomes a throughline of the documentary, which also explores the triumphs and struggles of León’s life outside the restaurant, though the two are never fully separate.

Arranged largely in chronological order, Humble Kitchen follows León’s journey from childhood to restaurateur through interviews with the chef and several colleagues. His pet dachshunds and Amilinda staff members make occasional appearances in the film.

During the documentary, shot by filmmaker Angel Medina, León doesn’t shy away from tough topics, speaking openly about loss, missteps and past struggles with substance use disorder. He also talks about the strain — both financial and emotional — of the COVID-19 pandemic and its near-fatal effect on Amilinda.

“I was never this open, so this is kind of a first,” León said during a Q&A held after a private screening Monday evening. “I hope somebody watches it and helps them. I guess that’s what the end goal is.”

León’s role in the community is another central theme. The chef is well known for participating in fundraising efforts, surrendering the kitchen at Amilinda, 315 E. Wisconsin Ave., for immigrant-led pop-ups, and championing LGBTQ chefs.

“He’s my queer elder,” said Kinship Cafe operator Caitlin Cullen in the documentary.

Interviewees also praised León’s perseverance and success in running Amilinda, which will celebrate its 11th anniversary later this month. The cozy restaurant serves award-winning Spanish and Portuguese dishes but has also become a hub of inclusivity.

“I can’t take credit for the restaurant feeling that way, I really can’t,” said León, who instead pointed to the influence of staff members and diners. “I think it just kind of happened organically, but it was not part of the business plan to create a restaurant that’s now like a community center.”

Asked what’s next, León said he’s partnering with Jenn Fishman to write a cookbook, though he’d be perfectly happy to “retire, like, yesterday.”

“After that, I don’t know,” he added. “We’ll see. We’ll just make it work, whatever comes our way.”

Humble Kitchen is a four-part docuseries highlighting immigrant chefs. León’s episode will be available to view online starting July 23.