Mother’s Sets Opening Date in Bay View
Previously a pop up, Mother's plans to launch its permanent space on June 26.
For years, opening a restaurant felt like a distant dream for Vanessa Rose, who always viewed the prospect with an underlying sense of “that’ll never happen.”
“It was the same sort of dream as winning the lottery,” she said. “It was all nebulous — fictitious. Didn’t really exist.”
Tuesday morning, though, Rose sat in the empty dining room at Mother’s, 2900 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., on the cusp of a dream becoming reality. The restaurant, set to open June 26, is the culmination of more than two decades of industry experience and a heartfelt passion for the LGBTQ+ community.
“It was after I started thinking about [the business] — creating queer cuisine, revolutionizing the way we pay people, and how this could work if only someone stood up and did it — that I actually began to wonder about its viability,” she said.
A brick-and-mortar interpretation of Rose’s globally-inspired pop up, Mother’s will emphasize small plates and out-of-the-box flavors — aiming to excite diners and push them to explore new sensations without having to commit to a full entree.
“When you come here, you are meant to challenge yourself and your palate, and to step outside the things you’re super familiar with,” she said. “You’re meant to play and be experimental.”
But the opening menu won’t be completely unknown. Rose plans to feature some of the “greatest hits” from past Mother’s pop-ups, including her crowd-favorite Madeira mushrooms — meaty, rich and topped with garden-fresh chives.
Berbere-spiced hanger steak with celery root puree; cumin and cinnamon-braised pork shoulder; and liang fen — or mung bean noodles — served with cantaloupe, numbing mala spice, pork floss and scallions are also featured. Also on the menu are hearty vegetable-based options like tikka masala gnocchi; tempura tofu; and saffron pickled egg with yolk mousse, Herbes de Provence and salsa verde.
Designed for sharing, the small plates format lets diners taste a bit of everything while still saving room for dessert — which Rose says is not to be missed.
Sweets from pastry chef Nick Hoover include Madras curry carrot cake with candied walnuts, bruleed banana and curried frozen yogurt; flourless chocolate cake with beetroot cremeux, cherry gastrique and creme fraiche chantilly; and financier with smoked almond mousse, apricot, thyme and sweet potato ice cream.
The drink menu — though still under development — promises to be equally eclectic, featuring a handful of craft cocktails alongside more far-flung offerings like South African wines, all with an emphasis on ethical sourcing.
The restaurant follows a European pricing structure, so service and tax are factored into the cost of each menu item — no tip necessary.
Mother’s is making its home in Bay View‘s historic White House building, formerly occupied by SAGE. Rose has repurposed much of the previous restaurant’s furniture and decor, and maintains the building’s original bar and built-ins — including an 1800s-era ice box.
“During Prohibition, this was very much in the style of At Random — a milkshake or soda bar, but they would throw a shot of whiskey in for you,” Rose said. “So it feels kind of apropos that as the ‘prohibition’ against queer people goes up and up and up, we’ve usurped a prohibition of alcohol space.
Rose praised Allison Meinhardt, the building owner and former SAGE operator, for her extensive restorations. “She put in a ton of work to get this looking as good as it does,” she said.
Unique touches from the Mother’s team include green and purple lighting, eggplant-colored walls and a shelf full of books that have proved “particularly influential” for Rose.
There’s also the towering pulpit, which will serve as a host stand for maître d’ Darnell Watson. “He’s six-foot-five in heels,” Rose quipped. “We’re looking to make every dinner a little bit of a show.”
As service expands, Mother’s also aims to operate as a third space for queer community members and their allies — a destination to gather, organize, perform or simply be, without the pretense of making a purchase. That mission falls under Rose’s larger concept, House of Bridges, with Mother’s serving as the food arm.
In addition to the dining room, the space includes a small parlor and several second-floor rooms, which are still under development but may eventually be used for performances and more. An outdoor garden will soon feature patio seating alongside beds of herbs, alliums and tomatoes.
Though Rose was initially pushing for an early June opening, she’s made peace with the timeline and is content to “grow into the space.”
“As queer culture dictates, we have arrived to the party late,” she said. “At some point, you do also have to say, it might not be perfect, but I have to get it on the plate and I have to send it.”
For Rose, Mother’s is the realization of a long-term goal. But establishing a permanent business is also symbolic of something much larger: hope.
“I think, in a time when everything feels so hopeless, sometimes the hope of a better future is how you organize against a less-than-desirable present.”
Mother’s will host a tasting dinner on June 30 as a finale to Pride Month, with guest chefs Gregory León, Mary Kastman and Dana Spandet all contributing dishes. Tickets are available to purchase online.
The restaurant is also accepting reservations for its grand opening. For future updates, follow Mother’s on Instagram.
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