Sophie Bolich

Thai and Japanese Restaurant Opens in Bay View

Room Service is the latest of several new restaurants slated to open along Kinnickinnic Avenue this spring.

By - Apr 12th, 2024 03:10 pm
Site of Room Service, 2159 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. Photo taken April 11, 2024 by Jeramey Jannene.

Site of Room Service, 2159 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. Photo taken April 11, 2024 by Jeramey Jannene.

Room Service, a new Thai and Japanese restaurant, opened its doors to the public in Bay View Thursday evening. If that title evokes thoughts of silver-domed plates and snacking in slippers, adjust your expectations.

Room Service is striking from first sight to last bite. The newly constructed building, 2159 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., soars with vaulted ceilings and basks in warm lighting. A vast, detailed mural stretches across the north wall, while two contemporary bars — one for sushi, another for alcohol — frame a dining room filled with clusters of dark wood tables and velvety, wraparound chairs.

But the restaurant’s look is only half its appeal.

The expansive menu at Room Service encompasses a wide range of Japanese and Thai dishes, from noodles and dumplings to sashimi and bao.

The offerings intentionally venture beyond the usual pad Thai and crab rangoon — though both still have a place at the table. A large portion of the menu, though, is dedicated to lesser-known Thai dishes and new takes on old favorites — a goal that owner and Executive Chef Joey Phadungsil has maintained since her earliest stages of planning.

Phadungsil told Urban Milwaukee in February that she planned to showcase authentic Thai food, using knowledge and techniques she acquired while working in her family’s restaurant in Bangkok.

Standout starters include royal flower dumplings, or chor muang, which are filled with a blend of spicy radish and salty peanuts. The dumpling wrapper is dyed a vibrant purple with butterfly pea flower and carved into a delicate flower shape, then speckled with gold leaf and served alongside fresh greens.

Osaka gyoza, stuffed with pork, cabbage, scallion and ginger, arrives with a crispy dumpling skirt that guards the tender dumplings beneath. The tom yum river prawn is a technical take on the comforting soup, with fragrant broth infused tableside and poured over whole grilled prawns.

Another small bite, chashu bao, spills over with slabs of tender pork belly; fresh scallion and cucumber add crunch to cut through the richness of the dish.

The menu divides main dishes by region, with categories like Chiangmai Inspired, Phuket Treasure, Issan and Bangkok Street Taste; the latter encompasses more popular dishes such as pad kee mao (drunken noodles) and pad Thai.

The rich and meaty Hung Lay short rib, hailing from northern Thailand, is slow-simmered in fragrant spices like cinnamon and chili and served bone-in atop a pool of rich sauce.

Another dish, somtam-kaitod, is noteworthy for both its flavor and its presentation. A trio of papaya salad, fried chicken and sticky rice is delivered on a three-tiered, woven bamboo platform. Two accompanying sauces come in their own small baskets.

The restaurant also offers a handful of meatless options, including a basil and mushroom stir fry and golden garlic rice.

In order to view the restaurant’s sushi selection, diners must scroll through 15 pages of the 21-page online menu (Room Service doesn’t have print copies at this time). But the results are worth the effort.

Several varieties of temaki hand rolls, each featuring five pieces — are available, along with a build-your-own option and a selection of sashimi and sushi rolls. The temaki rolls come with a protective, plant-based shield around the nori wrapper, ensuring the seaweed stays crisp until just before eating. It’s a small detail that significantly enhances the experience of the dish.

Daily offerings may vary slightly, as head chef Martin Baxin prioritizes the freshest catch and highest-quality product.

To drink, Room Service has a selection of signature cocktails featuring Thai and Japanese inspiration. Throughout the drink menu, guests will find notes of chili, basil, galangal, lemongrass, matcha, yuzu, shiso and more.

Room Service will remain in its soft opening phase through April 18, offering daily dinner service from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Reservations are available to book online or by phone at 414-414-9789

Starting April 19, the restaurant will switch over to its regular hours, opening daily from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. The restaurant also plans to offer a late-night menu from 10:30 p.m. until 1 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

Room Service is the latest concept to open in a $2.5 million restaurant complex being developed by Rice N Roll co-owner Pramoth Lertsinsongserm, who began work on the 0.37-acre lot at 2159-2161 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. in 2022.

The new restaurant, which will also feature a rooftop patio, joins quick-service eatery Todd I Believe I Can Fry, which opened in the rear storefront in January. Additional space remains available in the complex.

Two other restaurants, EsterEv and Paloma Taco and Tequila, are slated to open just steps away from Room Service in the coming days.

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Categories: Food & Drink

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