New Ramen Restaurant for W. Wells St.

1404 W. Wells St. Photo taken May 8, 2023 by Sophie Bolich.

After more than a decade in the Milwaukee area, Shuoyi Jiang still hadn’t found a local ramen restaurant that matched his taste, so he decided to open one.

Jiang is taking over the former Tangled Noodles and More space at 1404 W. Wells St. in the city’s Avenues West neighborhood, with plans to launch Tesshin Ramen, a full-service restaurant specializing in traditional and affordable versions of the Japanese noodle dish.

“I’m a ramen person,” said Jiang, who was happy to slurp his way through three to four bowls each day while traveling in Japan. “Hokkaido, Tokyo, Yokohama — they all have their own style of ramen.”

The same is true in Los Angeles’ Little Tokyo district, Jiang said. Even with six or seven shops crowded into a single block, “every one had a line.”

Jiang hopes to bring this same variety to Tesshin, which could offer such styles as tonkotsu, shio, shoyu and miso.

Though Jiang has a particular love for dipping ramen, which consists of cooled noodles and a concentrated broth to flavor each bite before eating, he hasn’t seen the same enthusiasm from diners. The style won’t be available permanently but may appear as a special, he said.

Tesshin’s proposed menu also features appetizers such as edamame, takoyaki, Japanese-style street fries, salads and karaage bites made with juicy chicken thighs. For dessert, Jiang plans to serve nama chocolate, a confection similar to a soft ganache made with dark chocolate and cream.

Jiang brings nine years of restaurant experience, including at Jin’s Sushi Seafood & Bar in Greenfield and Kenosha-based conveyor-belt sushi concept Sooshibay. While he’s worked both front and back of house, his background is strongest in the kitchen.

“I started cooking when I was 12,” said Jiang, who first set out to master wok tossing. “My grandpa actually taught me. He put some sand in the wok and told me that whenever I can toss it nonstop, I’ve finished.”

That philosophy inspired the restaurant’s name, Tesshin, which can be translated as “Iron Heart” or “Iron Will” in Japanese. Jiang said it reflects his dedication to the craft. “Whenever I want to do something, I get it done.”

As head of his own restaurant, Jiang said he’s looking forward to serving his product — and eating some himself.

Jiang said one of the biggest perks of opening his own restaurant is having his favorite ramen within arm’s reach. “I don’t have to hunt around for ramen anymore,” he said. “I can stay in my kitchen and eat it every day. I’m not going to sell something I wouldn’t eat every day myself.”

A full remodel is planned for the storefront, which neighbors Taco Pros near the Marquette University campus. Oakberry, a smoothie cafe, is also proposed one block west.

Tesshin aims to open by Dec. 21. After establishing the flagship, Jiang said he hopes to expand Tesshin into a franchise with central kitchens to ensure consistent quality.

A license application for the business is pending before the Milwaukee Common Council.

Given city approval, Tesshin Ramen would open 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday through Saturday, with the possibility of reduced hours during the summer.

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