Ramses Alvarez

Ramsés Alvaréz (left) and Caleb Reshkus. Photo by Sophie Bolich.

Editor: This is the third installment of a new series in which Urban Milwaukee will explore five ingredients and how to use them with Milwaukee chefs, growers and caterers.

If you want to know someone, look at their friends. If you want to know Ramsés Alvaréz, ask him about olive oil.

Grassy, peppery, fruity, floral—the chef’s collection covers a broad flavor spectrum, and has remained a constant focus of exploration throughout his decades-long career.

It’s also his nightcap of choice—an evening shot with black pepper and cayenne is good for the heart, Alvaréz said.

“Olive oil is one of those things that is basically magical in my world right now.”

At his Mediterranean restaurant, Brisa Do Mar, Alvaréz reaches for a bottle to saute vegetables, stir into salads or drizzle atop a freshly baked Napoletana pizza.

Olive oil is foundational to the cuisine, which is represented by a wide swath of countries, from Turkey to Morocco. Its scale is often misunderstood, said Alvaréz, noting that Greece typically dominates the conversation—and menu—when it comes to Mediterranean dining.

Olive oil suffers from the same misconception.

“A lot of people think they know olive oil, but they assume it’s all Italian,” Alvaréz said. “There’s a huge variety of olive oils from all across the world—one of my favorites is actually Spanish.”

For fruity, full-bodied oils, Alvaréz looks to North African countries like Tunisia and Algeria, while bottles from Turkey offer mild, buttery profiles. But his go-to comes from Tuscany, where hot summers, temperate winters and rolling hills produce bold, fragrant olives and equally renowned wines.

It’s fitting, given Alvaréz’s sommelier-like approach to olive oil. “It’s a lot like wine when you’re breaking down the flavors,” he said.

In addition to the fig and banana trees displayed at Brisa Do Mar, Alvaréz hopes to eventually add an olive tree and is in the process of purchasing a press to go with it. Lucky guests—likely those who book private dinners—may soon be treated to fresh-pressed olive oil and housemade bread.

“How cool would that be?” said Alvaréz, who also has his own brand of olive oil and balsamic vinegar from Sogno Toscano.

Though the chef tends to emphasize technique and tradition over ingredients, olive oil is an exception. Here’s a closer look at four more of Alvaréz’s favorites—and tips for using them at home.

Blackberries

Typically confined to coffee shop parfaits and hotel breakfast buffets, the mighty blackberry is vastly underrated in savory contexts, according to Alvaréz .

“I make a demi-glace with blackberries—just straight blackberries in a very hot pan, sauteed with a little bit of garlic and deglazed with red wine,” he said. “You’d be surprised at the flavor.”

Alvaréz credits European cooking, known for its use of cherries and currants to flavor sauces. “That’s kind of an old-school tradition for hunters cooking with venison and such,” he said. “But nobody uses it anymore.”

Sourdough

Brisa Do Mar’s Napoletana pizza is a crowd favorite, thanks in part to its puffy-edged crust, flecked with char from the blazing wood-fired oven.

Its irresistible texture and complex flavor come from millions of microorganisms—wild yeast and lactic acid bacteria, to be exact—which ferment the dough to create its distinctive crumb and subtle tang.

Sourdough technique can apply far beyond pizza crust and bread, though Alvaréz said focaccia might be his next project.

Croissants, soft pretzels and even chocolate cake get a boost from sourdough starter. Plus, sourdough discard is a creative and flavorful addition to everything from crackers to granola.

Spices

Though ubiquitous in nearly every restaurant kitchen, Alvaréz’s spice selection was a major focus during menu development for Brisa Do Mar. “When we started working with the recipes, I knew spices were going to be the number one thing,” he said.

Alvaréz’s non-negotiables include sumac (tart and citrusy), za’atar (a blend of dried herbs, toasted sesame seeds, sumac, and salt) and Aleppo pepper (fruity with light heat).

All three are blended with garlic, lemon juice and olive oil for the restaurant’s house mix, which shows up in dishes such as Turkish flatbread and roast chicken.

Nitrous Oxide

More of a tool than an ingredient, nitrous oxide has played a role in cocktail development under General Manager Caleb Reshkus. He recently experimented with sangria and cream, transforming the wine-based punch into a rich, velvety whip to be served over fruits like pineapple and apricot, and atop cocktails.

Beyond the bar, nitrous oxide can be used to quickly create flavored foams and sauces—and even do-it-yourself nitro coffee.

More About the Chef

Brisa Do Mar, opened in May 2024, is just the latest venture for Alvaréz, whose career spans more than two decades in Milwaukee. His passion for cooking traces back even further, inherited from his godfather, a former executive chef in Mexico City.

“When it was a holiday and all of the family was together, he would come and cook,” Alvaréz said. “Of course, everyone was super excited.” Other relatives, including his mom, aunt and grandma, owned small diners and “always sold food one way or another.”

Alvaréz followed in his family members’ footsteps as a young adult, following a stint as a messenger for the Mexican Stock Exchange. He joined a number of friends in the industry, later traveling to Milwaukee for an apprenticeship under Sanford D’Amato.

It was a full-circle moment for both chefs; D’Amato’s post-culinary school apprenticeship was in Mexico City, Alvaréz’s hometown. “So he was very familiar and—in a way—touched. That was his way to pay back all the great hospitality he got in Mexico,” Alvaréz said.

By the time the ink dried on Alvaréz’s new apartment lease, he was already immersed in the city’s culture. “The first night I came here, we worked the shift at Sanford, and after that, all the kitchen staff went to The Y-NOT II,” he said. “That was my first bar experience.”

Alvaréz went on to work at a number of local establishments before launching his own. He was part of the opening team for Juniper 61 and two Water Street Brewery locations, then developed Vagabond and revamped Mason Street Grill and Hyatt Regency Milwaukee. He also created Dia Bom, a Latin-Asian fusion concept which previously operated at Crossroads Collective.

Brisa Do Mar is his biggest project yet, and continues to grow. Alvaréz said he looks forward to introducing new Mediterranean flavors as the business continues to find its rhythm at 509 E. Erie St.

“It’s hard, but very enjoyable,” Alvaréz said.