Lazy Susan Adds Class to Bay View
Opened by former Cafe Centro chef, it offers homey, international fare.
Lazy Susan (2378 S. Howell Ave.) is the most recent addition to Bay View’s burgeoning restaurant scene. A.J. Dixon, who’s been associated with Country Clare, Café Lulu, Pastiche and most recently as head chef at Café Centro, finally opened a place of her own a couple of weeks ago. It’s a storefront with a cool minimal look, subdued pastels and earth tones, clean wooden furniture and a rippled glass pane by the front door. There’s a hip soundtrack, fairly high octane but not too loud, which to my delight featured a fair amount of Lou Reed. The bar, made by Dixon’s husband, is comfortable and stylish, with an acrylic coated wood top (made from barn boards) and a nice selection of unusual liquors (I’d never heard of Uncle Val’s gin, but it makes an excellent martini).
There are a lot of other enticing items on the menu, which changes regularly, including (when I went there) a pheasant confit b’stilla (a Moroccan flaky pastry dish), trout patties with creamed leeks, and chicken fried drummers with pepper gravy and mashed potatoes. There are only a few desserts, though the chocolate ancho pot de crème ($5) I tried, a chocolate mousse with a slight chili ancho flavor, was dense and delicious.
Lazy Susan is a welcome addition to the Bay View restaurant world. The ambience is tasteful and relaxed, and unlike some other popular Bay View restaurants, the noise level isn’t overwhelming (at least the times I’ve been there). I’ve mentioned the interesting selection of cocktails and liquors; the wine list is also reasonable and well chosen. Like any new restaurant there was a bit of confusion about some of the dishes and their availability, but I’m sure that’s under control by now. You’ll find more about the restaurant here.
Previous Reviews by John Koethe: