Allende Cocina Mexicana Is New and Different

Allende Cocina Mexicana. Photo by Cari Taylor-Carlson.

In March, Allende Cocina Mexicana moved into the space on S. 1st St. previously occupied by Stack’d Burger Bar. At first glance, you will not know you have entered a Mexican restaurant, so it’s a surprise to find many unique dishes on the menu that exceed the Mexican menu choices usually found locally.

For example, you will see huitlacoche quesadillas, made with corn fungus as it is known in Mexico, or, as the daily special at Allende read, “corn truffles.” Whatever you want to call it, huitlacoche is a small, bite-sized mushroom that grows on corn and has a mild flavor like an oyster mushroom. Seared corn kernels, chopped tomatoes and a mild avocado sauce completed this oversized and hand-formed quesadilla. It was big, messy and totally delicious. It came with a cup of crema and a cup of very fresh, chunky guacamole.

Unlike most quesadillas found locally, this quesadilla was folded in half and required a knife and fork. We learned from our server, Alex, that the tortillas for the quesadillas are grilled in a smear of oil on just one side so they will fold and remain crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, a combination that worked well in our quesadillas. “This is how they do it in Mexico,” he said.

My companions also ordered quesadillas, the flor de calabaza and the grande with pastor. Flor de calabaza are squash blossoms from summer squash, most commonly from zucchini. In this quesadilla that also included mushrooms, onion and tomato, the dominant flavor came from the mushrooms. When a slight grassy flavor from the squash blossoms mixed with the earthy mushrooms, the result was an unusual and tasty filling for this quesadilla.

The pastor in the grande quesadilla, marinated pork shoulder, tasted like a street taco from Mexico City — with juicy pork, straight from the grill, tucked inside a freshly made corn tortilla. You can also have the pastor in a burrito, a taco or an enchilada. A companion ordered the charro beans that were loaded with small pieces of sausage and said, “I could eat a whole pot of these beans.”

The décor at Allende Cocina Mexicana is contemporary, with an open kitchen, wooden tables, a hardwood floor, wooden pillars and exposed rafters. We learned from our server that owners Cesar Lopez and Yolanda Herrera Montes were married in San Miguel de Allende, hence the name of the restaurant. In the entrance, among many photos, you will see a large photo of Parroquia de San Miguel, an iconic symbol of the city.

If you want a dish with spicy heat, order rojas de papas: potato enchiladas made with a spicy tomato-based sauce. Three corn tortillas filled with chunks of potato that had been doused in sauce were topped with crema, Mexican cheese, pickled red onion and half a sliced avocado. A bowl of black beans accompanied these delicious vegetarian enchiladas.

Another vegetarian dish, esquite, tasted as if it had come directly from the streets of Mexico City. A combination of grilled corn and corn puree was topped with salty cheese and a mild chipotle sauce, creating a salty, sweet dish that was enhanced by the creamy chipotle sauce. It was hard to share.

The grilled N.Y. strip steak fajitas were artistically arranged on a cast-iron grill pan that was set on a wooden board. Every bite remained hot to the end of the meal, and even the table underneath the board was still warm 30 minutes later. There was a lot of steak and every bite was tender. There were also grilled peppers, grilled onions and side dishes of crema, guacamole and pico de gallo to embellish the steak.

If you bring the family, look for the kids menu where $9 buys a taco or a quesadilla, a side and a drink. The owners have opened a restaurant with something for everyone. After two meals there, my companions and I can’t wait to return for more of Allende Cocina’s tasty Mexican food.

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• Location: 160 S. 1st St.
• Phone: 414-210-4678
• Hours: 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Mon-Sun
• Neighborhood: Harbor View
• Website: https://allendemke.com

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