Safina Brings Modern Italian Cuisine to East Town
Run by longtime Milwaukee restaurateurs, new eatery had soft opening in early June.
Site of Safina, 785 N. Jefferson St. Photo taken June 19, 2023 by Sophie Bolich.
Safina, a modern Italian restaurant, has officially opened its doors in the East Town neighborhood, marking the start of a new chapter for brothers and longtime restaurateurs Joe, David and Sal Safina.
Although the building, 785 N. Jefferson St., the decor and even some menu items — sourced from generations-old family recipes — received a refresh, the family’s well-honed routine remains intact.
Even after an extended break, the rhythm of restaurant life comes naturally, said Sal Safina. “It’s in our blood,” he said. “This is what we do.”
The brothers’ dad, Giovanni, continues to lend his expertise in the kitchen. “He comes in in the morning, preps, he cuts all the meats, he makes the sauces, you know, He’s still doing that,” Safina said.
The industry veteran and Safina patriarch is known for his previous establishments Nicolo’s and Giovanni’s. The eponymous restaurant opened in 1977 and operated for four decades until its 2017 closure.
The family began work on Safina last summer with plans to open the restaurant in October 2022. But after a nearly year-long renovation process, the restaurant sat empty for months, unable to open due to staffing shortages that continue to plague the industry in the aftermath of the COVID-19 pandemic.
“That kind of held us up until recently,” Safina said, noting that the restaurant is still looking to fill several front-of-house positions.
Safina quietly began its soft opening in early June — a welcome surprise to passersby on their way to Jazz in the Park, held at the nearby Cathedral Square Park. The soft opening phase will continue for another few weeks as staff complete their training, Safina said. A grand opening is tentatively set for early July.
“We missed the customers,” Safina said. “To us, it’s family. From the employees to the customers, everybody is family. You come in our doors, we want to treat you like it’s a Sunday dinner.”
The menu at Safina’s includes a variety of classic and comforting Sicilian dishes with an emphasis on seafood and fresh, seasonal ingredients. Guests will find a number of returning favorites from the family’s previous restaurants, including fried eggplant strips, mozzarella balls and calamari.
The insalata di mare, or seafood salad, is another returning item. The dish still features a fresh mix of calamari, shrimp and octopus tossed with crunchy vegetables and red wine vinaigrette. But the new rendition has a more polished plating style.
The family’s famous veal parmesan is also back, but with a twist, Safina said. The revamped dish features a 14-ounce veal ribeye, tenderized and served Milanese-style with parmesan.
Diners can also expect grilled branzino, bone-in pork chops and a Sicilian-style stuffed filet with provolone, prosciutto di parma, caramelized onions, roma tomato and potatoes.
A variety of pasta dishes, salads and sandwiches round out the menu, along with an assortment of decadent Italian desserts.
To drink, the restaurant offers a lineup of classic cocktails, beer — including a few local picks — and several taplines of Italian wine.
Guests can expect the menu to change seasonally, depending on what’s fresh and available, Safina said. And though the restaurant strives to emphasize local ingredients, several non-negotiables — including olive oil, pastas, salt and more — are flown in from Italy.
The Safina family has a storied history in Milwaukee. In addition to Giovanni Safina’s long-standing restaurants, the family previously operated Tutto, Notte and Comedy Cafe, and are partners in Bodega. The brothers also own The Sofie, a cocktail lounge located next door to Safina.
Prior to Safina, the 1858 building was the site of Phoenix Cocktail Club.
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