Third Ward’s Saffron Presents New Menu

Fatima Kumar and Hanish Kumar. Photo taken Feb. 27, 2023 by Sophie Bolich.

In the nearly nine months since its opening in the Historic Third Ward, Saffron has established itself as a unique addition to the city’s fine-dining scene, pushing the boundaries of Indian cuisine through modern techniques, non-traditional ingredients and inventive presentation.

“The Third Ward has been beyond kind to us,” said Fatima Kumar, who co-owns the restaurant with her husband, Hanish. “Milwaukee as a whole has been super accepting of a new flavor coming into the field. Everyone has been happy trying new things and going where they perhaps might not be comfortable. It’s been phenomenal.”

Though they’re grateful for the warm welcome, the Kumars aren’t ones to rest on their laurels. Through months of research and planning, the couple, along with head chef Abhishek Patil, developed a brand new lineup of dishes for the restaurant, timed to correlate with the imminent — if we’re lucky — arrival of spring.

The new menu, which debuted to the public on Tuesday, Feb. 28, showcases proteins such as Chilean sea bass and bone-in chicken, as well as additional vegetarian dishes and outside-the-box ingredients like shiso leaf, black truffle and fruit-infused gels.

“It’s good to keep everybody on their toes,” Fatima Kumar said. “We want to keep everybody guessing with our presentation, with our styles and with the proteins that we bring in.”

In creating the new menu, the couple said they drew inspiration from visits to New York, California, London and India. In exploring the world and its various cuisines, “you can find restaurants that have that bit of a flair. That’s where we got some of our ideas from and that’s what we wanted to bring here to Milwaukee,” Fatima Kumar said.

In addition to experimenting with flavors, the couple said they emphasized presentation, incorporating futuristic technology and plating methods that invite guests to interact with the food.

“We like to see what we’re eating as much as eat what we’re eating,” Fatima Kumar said.

The pani puri sampler, for example, elevates a classic Indian street snack with a selection of puri (flavored water) presented in test tubes. Patil, the head chef, traveled to India to collaborate with local vendors in designing the glass tubes, as well as other dishware for the restaurant.

Elsewhere on the menu, various dishes and cocktails are adorned with edible clouds; the helium-infused foam is used as an aromatic garnish, but will float right up to the ceiling if released.

“That’s not something that you’ll see anywhere else,” Hanish Kumar said. “It’s brand new to us here at Saffron.”

Avocado edamame bhel, a vegan dish, features a cilantro-infused edible cloud atop a mixture of charcoal puffed grains, mango, tamarind, vermicelli and pomegranate gel.

One problem with being at the forefront of upcoming culinary trends? The necessary ingredients and equipment aren’t always readily available.

“A lot of flavors that we’re incorporating, we couldn’t find them, we couldn’t source them, so we made them,” Fatima Kumar said. “But to keep up with that creativity level and the consistency, it takes work, it takes time.”

The new menu features nine small plates ranging from $12 to $20, including truffle and goat cheese kulcha; duck seekh kebabs with chutney, apricot gel, chili and layered paratha; and bao stuffed with soft shell crab, slaw, sriracha aioli and pickled chili.

Entrees, $26 to $40, include Alleppey curry with Chilean sea bass, green apple caviar, green mango and coconut served over lemon rice and bone-in goat stew with baby vegetables, truffle oil and a hint of coconut, served with rice crepes. There’s also a vegetarian dish, Hyderabadi bagara baingan, a tomato-based, tangy yogurt curry with eggplant and curry leaves.

Tandoori options include the oak-smoked lamb chops with saffron and spiced salmon with basil and cilantro pesto. A handful of accompaniments include baked brussels sprouts, dal makhani, gluten-free bread, saffron rice, flaky lachha paratha, whole wheat roti and an assortment of flavored naan.

For dessert, there’s gajar halwa, carrot pudding with house-made fig ice cream and raspberry rabri, or angoori gulab jamun, cottage cheese dumplings with sweet syrup.

Popular dishes from the original menu such as saffron butter chicken, crispy cauliflower and several items from the tandoor oven have earned a permanent place on the new menu.

“We’re just very, very excited to show everything to everybody,” Fatima Kumar said. “We have tried very, very hard to come up with these concepts and ideas.”

As always, menu items are subject to change based on quality and availability.

“That’s one thing we take a very strong stand on,” Fatima Kumar said. “If we don’t see the quality in that protein or in that lentil, we’ll just go ahead and take it off the menu completely until we can re-source it.”

Already looking ahead, the couple are planning to launch a brunch menu within the coming months, which would be accompanied by a brand new beverage list featuring alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails.

Saffron, located at 223 N. Water St., is open for dinner Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday from 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. and Friday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. The restaurant also serves lunch Tuesday through Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.

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