Mexican Restaurant Planned For Farwell Avenue

Site of future Sonora’s, 2124 N. Farwell Ave. Photo taken March 13, 2023 by Sophie Bolich.

Milwaukee, with its award-winning taquerias, family-run bakeries and abundance of food trucks, has no shortage of Mexican food — and an upcoming restaurant would add another to the tally, with a promise to deliver “authentic, rustic” cuisine, including dishes rarely seen in the city.

At Sonora’s, 2124 N. Farwell Ave., owner and chef George Ortiz plans to serve food and beverages flavored by Mexico City and Oaxaca, and complemented by a laid-back and welcoming atmosphere.

“I want it to look and feel and taste and smell really authentic,” said Ortiz. “Like walking into grandma’s house, and your nose is just exploding with all of these scents of food, that’s my vision. It’s got to feel like home, it’s got to be exceptional.”

A Chicago-native, Ortiz spent two decades as an educator before making a career change to hospitality. He attended Kendall College, a culinary institution, where he focused on French cuisine. While there, Ortiz discovered that many of his classmates had similar stories.

“I met an attorney who doesn’t want to be an attorney. He says, ‘I want to be a chef,'” Ortiz said. “He owns a restaurant — three of them — and he’s like, ‘I’m happy as a clam when I cook, when I wash dishes, because this is what I love.’ It’s just funny what life does, the twists and the turns and who you meet. It was an epic and beautiful chapter in my life, going to culinary school.”

Most recently, Ortiz was employed with a corporate hospitality organization. As he prepares to open the new restaurant, he has spent time combing through his 20 years of recipe notes, as well as discovering the joys of “small-waukee” — a nickname bestowed upon this city for its small-town feel.

“I’ve met an enormous amount of people, and the alderman has been really supportive,” Ortiz said. “We actually had a two-and-a-half hour conversation about food and life.”

He’s also been getting a feel for Milwaukee’s restaurant scene, visiting local coffee shops, taquerias and more. “I miss Chicago, but I want to grow roots here,” he said.

Earlier this month, Ortiz traveled to Mexico to gather inspiration and finalize his menu with the input of local chefs and restaurateurs. In addition to new insight, Ortiz returned with artwork and clay pots to decorate the restaurant space.

The menu at Sonora’s centers on locally-sourced and seasonal ingredients — showcasing Wisconsin-grown produce in dishes such as rustic corn soup, Ortiz said.

The restaurant would also offer a variety of handcrafted drinks including horchata and aguas frescas — infused for two days and, in some cases, enhanced with a splash of rum, tequila or mezcal. Shaved ice, a childhood favorite for Ortiz, adds a dose of nostalgia.

The rest of the menu is a surprise, said Ortiz, noting that he aims to offer high-quality food at a reasonable price.

“Food is something that should be consumed slowly,” he said. You know, it’s to break bread and to sit down and have a beautiful conversation about whatever subject.”

Ortiz extolled the camaraderie of the restaurant industry, noting that he’s been offered assistance and advice at every turn. The experience has assured him that he’s in the right place.

“That’s what happens with restaurateurs, everyone helps each other,” he said. “It’s wonderful, and this is who I am. I believe in destiny and different chapters of your life. It’s awesome. My glass is always half full.”

Once Sonora’s is up and running, Ortiz plans to open a second restaurant. It will be a brand new concept, he said, but with the same philosophy — “keep it simple.”

Sonora’s would replace Simple Cafe, which operated at the address from 2013 until 2021. The building also houses neighboring businesses Good City Brewing, Waterford Wine & Spirits and the now-closed Fushimi sushi restaurant.

Sonora’s is expected to open May 29.

Photos