Ryan Braun’s Graffito

On a sunny Saturday afternoon, my friends and I headed to the Third Ward in search of patio seating and fresh Italian fare at Ryan Braun’s Graffito. Formerly known as Ryan Braun’s Waterfront, the restaurant (which still bears the name of the Milwaukee Brewers leftfielder, although Braun himself is not an owner) was re-opened by the SURG restaurant group this past spring with a new concept: scratch Italian cooking.

From the filtered water they serve tableside to the mozzarella on their pizza, everything is made in house.

The spacious interior was cool and inviting, with white-washed walls accented by Milwaukee-themed graffiti-style murals, but our group opted to enjoy the long-awaited summer sun on Graffito’s expansive riverside patio.

After being seated, we quickly picked up the drink menu looking for something light and refreshing. At $25 a bottle, the Zardetto Prosecco was an easy choice.

Shortly after our server popped the cork on our sparkling wine, he brought over the Graffito’s signature dip and house-made ciabatta bread. At the table, he mixed roasted garlic, olive tapenade, parmigiano cheese, and olive oil , paired with fluffy, warm bread.

While they were offering their brunch menu at the time (served 11 – 4 p.m. on weekends), the lunch menu seemed more appealing.

We ordered our appetizers: Bruschetta ($7) and the Sweet Potato Pizza Pie ($11) to share. The bruschetta was certainly a unique twist on an appetizer served at many restaurants, Italian or otherwise. Alongside a plate of crisp ciabatta crostini were two glass jars: one of tomato jam with oven-roasted cherry tomatoes and another filled with homemade ricotta cheese with fresh basil and chives.

The tomato jam was flavorful and sweet, just like a fresh summer tomato should be. The ricotta was light and creamy and the crostini added the perfect crunch.

The Sweet Potato Pie consisted of a thin layer of sweet potato puree upon their homemade pizza dough topped with their house mozzarella, sopressata, and radicchio. The crust was thin, but slightly chewey. The sweetness from the potato puree and house mozzarella was accented nicely by the savory, peppery bite from the sopressata, a dry-cured salami. Finally, the purple radicchio added beautiful color contrast as well as a fresh, crunchy bitterness.

For entrees, our group shared the Proscuitto and Melon Salad ($11), the Tomato and Mozzarella Panini ($8), The Big Vinnie Panini ($11), and the Gamberi Pasta ($17).

The Proscuitto and Melon salad was served with a light mixture of frisee and arugula, a compote of strawberries with almond crumble, a side of taleggio cheese and pinwheels of thinly sliced melon rolled with prosciutto ham. While the concept of this dish was intriguing, the execution was disappointing. The salty prosciutto ham was sliced too thick and as such, was excessively fatty, and the flavor overpowered the sweetness of the melon. The strawberry compote, taleggio and fresh greens were all independently delicious, they did not make for a cohesive dish.

The Tomato and Mozzarella panini came with tomato jam layered with basil pesto and homemade mozzarella on Graffito’s grilled ciabatta bread. The flavors were fantastic together, but all of the moisture in the cheese and tomato mix caused the sandwich to fall apart.

The Big Vinnie Panini certainly lived up to its name in flavor, but not necessarily in size. Coppa, prosciutto, speck, sopressata, provolone, and fresh romaine were layered on the ciabatta and then dressed with balsamic vinaigrette and tomato jam. A great mixture of salty, tangy, and sweet, The Big Vinnie encapsulated all of my favorite Italian flavors.

The final dish we shared was the Gamberi Pasta —  homemade linguini topped with a mixture of fresh shrimp, heirloom tomatoes, garlic, preserved lemon, spinach, and parmigiano cheese. The pasta was cooked perfectly and the shrimp had a beautiful fresh flavor, but the dish was lacking on the side of the heirloom tomatoes and preserved lemons that the menu described. A few cubed pieces of heirloom tomato did not do the dish justice, and with such a short season they should have played a larger role. While there was a hint of lemon in the mild, broth-like sauce, I had hoped for more to complement the other flavors.

While some of the dishes had their missteps, they were overall experience was an enjoyable one, and the beautiful waterside view at Ryan Braun’s Graffito provides a lovely backdrop for any meal.

Ryan Braun’s Graffito serves dinner Monday through Saturday, with special family-style dinners on Sunday nights. Lunch and brunch are served Saturday and Sunday.

Ryan Braun’s Graffito
102 N. Water St., Milwaukee
Hours: 5 p.m. – Midnight (Mon – Thurs);  11 a.m. – 2 a.m. (Fri. & Sat.); 11 a.m. – 10 p.m. (Sunday)
All major credit cards accepted