2008-10 Vital Source Mag – October 2008
On Assignment
by Matt Wild + Photos by Kat Berger I’m sipping a flat rum and coke at a place called El Bait Shop (Spanish for: The Bait Shop) in downtown Des Moines, Iowa, when I realize how much this town is like a Lou Reed record: difficult, frustrating and haunted by past brilliance. Sure, there’s always something of worth to be found buried beneath the bright bars and non-existent music scene (or, in Lou Reed’s case, concept albums about Edgar Allen Poe) but damn if you don’t have to work for it. To explain: In late August, Vital sent me to cover the inaugural World Xtreme Boxing Challenge being held in Des Moines. Less than 48 hours before I was scheduled to leave, the tournament was cancelled. Figuring a weekend out of town might do me some good, I decided to make the trip anyway. My story would now be of the city itself, its similarities and differences to Milwaukee, its selling points and hidden treasures. It would also be a half-assed travelogue, one that would come to feature a failed Wayne Newton encounter, an appropriately geeky renaissance fair and me getting slapped in the face by a dwarf. And finally, like a Lou Reed album (I’m thinking something along the lines of Transformer now), it would be about how a road trip can be a bundle of blind hope, bitter disappointments and – given enough time and patience – something like a revelation. This is the story of that road trip. This is Des Moines. DAY 1 Looking out the windows of the ultra-swank Embassy Club atop the 801 Grand building, you can see nearly everything there is to see of Des Moines, a city roughly a quarter the size of Milwaukee. It’s a beautiful city, really, with the Iowa State Capitol – its 23-karat gold-plated dome shining in the sunset – overlooking downtown. I’m taking it all in with a glass of red wine in my hand, joined by Milwaukee’s own Amy Elliott, Bridget Brave and Kat Berger. (A quick note to male readers: when making a road trip with three women, it takes less than 20 minutes before the conversation turns to tampons and Judy Blume books.) We’ve just driven seven hours and have barely made our dinner appointment with three members of the Des Moines Convention and Visitors Bureau. There are no prices on our menus and the ladies look amazing. I’ve managed to put on a shirt and tie. The similarities between Des Moines and Milwaukee are striking: both share a clean, compact downtown that has benefited from recent revitalization programs, and both have a contentious, newly-erected bronze statue to contend with (in the case of Des Moines, it’s of recent Olympic gold-medalist Shawn Johnson). Other fun facts learned over our five-course meal: Des Moines is the insurance capital of America, it contains some of the most extensive urban biking/hiking trails in the world, and its four-mile downtown skywalk system is second-to-none. Later, a helpful Wikipedia […]
Oct 1st, 2008 by Matt Wild
Grails
Some folks label the Portland, OR band Grails instrumental. I deem it ambient or Narada metal. The prolific (and I use this term with a large measure of chagrin) quartet’s 9th release this millennium, Doomsdayer’s Holiday, really is just more of the same, and all the more agonizing because of it. The seven songs within dabble in a few textures, but all of it just blows wind (literally, in many unfortunate instances) and is entirely forgettable. Many have come before Grails, and to much better results. There’s “doom” metal (just grubby blues licks) on “Reincarnation Blues” and “Predestination Blues.” Then there are the aforementioned wind samples, high-fret guitar chimes, and recycled “large room” percussion on the opening title track. The only creative touch or compelling moment of any kind comes at the very end, with the Pink Floyd-apeing “Acid Rain.” All of these songs are frustrating in their sheer lack of direction and overall dullness. Virtually everything here is pretentious: the artwork (perhaps an homage to Danzig: naked breasts, check; power animal, check; fog, check; ominous trees, check), the songwriting (with ho-hum musicianship at best) and the production (will Steve Albini get royalties?). I can best describe this (and in fact, their entire output) as merely different joints all rolled from the same bag of weed. Now, I must ask you … have you ever smoked eight-yearold weed?
Oct 1st, 2008 by Troy Butero
Octoberfeast
Oktoberfest is a 16-day festival held each year in Munich, Germany. Originated in 1810 to commemorate the wedding of Crown Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese of Bavaria, it is reputed to be the world’s largest fair, with millions celebrating every year by troughing mass quantities of food and lager. Here are a couple of great recipes for your own Octoberfeast. VS (Photos by Lynn Allen) Chef/Owner John Poulos Karl Ratzsch’s 320 E Mason Street Milwaukee, WI 53202 414-276-2720 Karl Ratzsch’s celebrates its 105th birthday next year. Chef/owner John Poulos came on board in 1976 as a prep cook during his training at MATC’s culinary school. Many of the Southern German recipes go back to Mama Ratzch’s originals, like the renowned hot bacon salad dressing, the sauerbraten, wiener schnitzel, roast goose, stuffed pork chops and German potato salad. Five years ago, with partners Tom Andera and Judy Hazard, Poulos bought the restaurant from the Ratzch family. Poulos has since tweaked the menu, adding appetizers and lighter fare. His salmi recipe is the happy result of a mistake. Mr. Ratzch was roasting ducks and forgot about them, so they overcooked. He took bar olives and cherries and made a sauce with Burgundy wine. It’s been on the menu or run as a special ever since and is always featured at lunch and dinner on Saturdays. Karl Ratzch’s Salmi of Duck Shanks A salmi, short for salmigondis, is a ragout of wild game, often featuring waterfowl plentiful during Wisconsin’s fall hunting season. You may also stalk down all the ingredients you need in the aisles of your grocery store. 6 duck shanks (8 to 10 ounces each) Salt and pepper to taste Granulated garlic to taste 2 onions, sliced 4 bay leaves 6 cups chicken stock ¼ cup honey ½ cup packed light brown sugar 2 cups frozen sour cherries, thawed ½ cup pimento olives, sliced ¼ cup Burgundy wine ½ cup cornstarch mixed in ½ cup cold water Chicken base to taste Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Season shanks with salt, pepper and garlic. Put duck shanks skin side up in a 15-by-10-by-2-inch roasting pan and cook 40 minutes in the oven or until light brown in color. Add onions, bay leaves and stock. Cover with foil and roast in preheated oven for 40 minutes. Remove foil and baste. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees. Return to oven without covering. Cook 30 to 40 minutes longer, or until golden brown and the meat is tender. Remove shanks and strain stock. Transfer strained stock to a saucepan. Add honey, brown sugar, cherries, olives and Burgundy. Bring to boil, then thicken with cornstarch and water mixture until the consistency of a medium-thick gravy. Adjust seasoning of sauce with chicken base to enhance flavor, then return meat to roasting pan and top with sauce. Roast 15 to 20 minutes. Serve with wild rice and stuffing. Makes 3 servings. Ms. Marcellyne C. Amann Ms. Amann grew up in a large family of German and Irish heritage […]
Oct 1st, 2008 by Cate Miller
