How A Cambodian Grandmother Inspired Milwaukee Sandwich Shop
Coming to 3rd Street Market Hall, Num Pang will offer Cambodian-style sandwiches.
Hot beef sando. Photo courtesy of Nikki and Brian Podgorski.
Nikki Podgorski‘s grandmother, or “yey” in Khmer, split her days between rice farming and running a small food stall at the local market. Growing up at her elbow, Podgorski, a first-generation Cambodian American, absorbed her cooking skills, work ethic and entrepreneurial spirit.
Years later, Podgorski is following a similar — though distinct — path, launching her own food stall at 3rd Street Market Hall. Num Pang, which she’ll operate with her husband, Brian, is guided by the lessons her yey passed down.
“She was like my mom and dad put together,” said Podgorski, whose parents worked long hours during her childhood. “She taught me at a very young age how to cook for not only myself, but for my family. And she taught me traditional Cambodian recipes, just making sure that I remember our culture and how to make authentic food.”
Ingredients like kroeung will reflect that knowledge at Num Pang. “I call it our Cambodian holy trinity,” Podgorski said of the flavorful paste, made with lemongrass, lime leaf and herbs and spices. “It’s the foundation for a lot of Cambodian cuisine.”
Kroeung, often used as a marinade or base for sauces, brings aromatic, earthy flavor to the Cambodian grinder — a fresh-baked baguette filled with ham, turkey, raw white onion and kroeung vinaigrette — and is a key addition to Num Pang’s chicken sandwich, topped with lime and sweet basil.
Though the restaurant also serves homemade soups, pickled papaya salad and bor bor, a comforting rice porridge, hot sandwiches are the main attraction — a nod to Nikki’s upbringing.
“Being first generation, I learned about traditional Cambodian cuisine, but also grew up with American Western cuisine,” she said. “A lot of things we eat are in sandwich form — we love our American burgers.”
Sandwiches are also significant to Cambodia’s street food scene, often featuring barbecued or stewed meats. Num Pang aims to marry the two cultures with options that are both “approachable and easily consumable,” Nikki said.
The Podgorskis are fresh from a research trip to Cambodia, where they tasted new foods and delved deeper into Nikki’s family history.
“The wonderful Khmer people and the natural riches of Cambodia left us with a lot of drive and inspiration to bring some fun new things,” Brian said. “Cambodian food is so underrepresented right now.”
Num Pang, set to open in April, will be the couple’s first Wisconsin venture. They also run Burger Daddies, an award-winning food truck based in Minnesota. In preparation for the Milwaukee launch, the Podgorskis have spent recent months exploring the city. And they like what they see.
“We’ve really appreciated all the charm and uniqueness Milwaukee has, and we’re super, super excited to have kind of a new place to spread our wings and enjoy,” Brian said.
Num Pang will neighbor another Minnesota native, Bebe Zito, at 3rd Street Market, filling the vendor stall currently home to Craft Boba. The shuffle will move Craft to a new stall as Fonzarelli’s Italian Deli departs at the end of the month.
As the restaurant settles into its spot at the market, 275 W. Wisconsin Ave., the Podgorskis hope to continue building on their vision. “If it means more food trucks, more food stalls, maybe a standalone restaurant someday, that’s absolutely fantastic,” Brian said.
“I think we’re open to whatever the universe is going to grant us,” he added. “Being happy has led us to a lot of things, and if we keep following that, there’s no reason that should change. We’re incredibly thankful for the opportunity we’ve been given.”
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