Balistreri’s Bluemound Inn Is Classic Italian

Both Balistreri’s, the Inn on Bluemound and the Ristorante in Wauwatosa, are known for their pizza, but the restaurant I visited on Bluemound is far more than a typical pizza joint. When you step inside and see the polished wooden railing, the elegant, curved bar that defines one of the dining rooms, the old-fashioned light fixtures, and tables set with white cloths, you know that with such attention to detail, there will be some tasty Italian cuisine. After two lunchtime visits, friends and I concluded the ambiance falls somewhere in the middle of supper club, fine dining, and German Rathskeller. 

Our table was lovely, set with glass water goblets, a white tablecloth, and a charming Christmas decoration that added seasonal joy. As soon as we were seated our server brought a basket of bread with a pitcher of olive oil and a container filled with soft butter, an improvement over the little butter briquets often presented with a bread basket. Because both my visits were during the holidays, the restaurant was packed, yet there was only a gentle conversational buzz thanks to that noise-softening carpet. We noted it cleared out by 2:00 which left time for the staff to breathe before the evening rush started.

Despite the crowded restaurant, our meals left the kitchen quickly and came to the table piping hot on warm plates. Pasta Balistreri came topped with what looked like at least half a pound of Italian sausage, along with red and yellow peppers, fresh mozzarella, fresh basil, and a tasty marinara. The penne was al dente and overall, the dish was worthy of the name Balistreri. My companion paired it with Insulata Balistreri, a salad that also lived up to its name, leaf lettuce in a mustard vinaigrette topped with prosciutto and blue cheese.

The Chicken Parmesan Sandwich, sauteed breaded chicken with spaghetti sauce and mozzarella served on a ciabatta bun was less satisfying. This thick piece of white meat had a soft, not crisp layer of bread crumbs. If I ordered it again, and I might because the flavors were there, I would forgo the ciabatta and call it Chicken Parmesan. My salad, cranberry-walnut coleslaw, was simply delicious. It was tart from cranberries along with sweet raisins and crunchy toasted walnuts.

On a second visit my companion and I stayed with the Balistreri label on our entrees and ordered The Works, Balistreri Pizza and Bluemound Inn Classic Whitehouse. The Whitehouse needed an explanation. The dish combined ham, turkey, and bacon, in a mushroom cream sauce, served “en casserole,” and was topped with Swiss and American cheese. The cheese melted into the sauce turning it into a rich mornay filled with those three proteins. The accompanying toast points were lovely but unnecessary; I ate it with a spoon, every scrumptious cheesy bite.

Because Balistreri’s is known for thin crust pizza, we anticipated a thin crust, something cracker-like. Yes, it was relatively thin, but didn’t live up to my personal gold standard for thin crust pizza at another local restaurant which will remain anonymous. We were impressed at the ability of this crust to hold all the toppings, and because this was a Special, it was loaded.

Sauteed Chicken Livers are seldom seen on local menus so we ordered them. People who like chicken livers will appreciate this appetizer. The livers, and there were many, were sauteed with onions and mushrooms and lightly coated with fried bread crumbs. This was a shareable feast for at least four.

Because this review barely touched the vast number of choices on the lunch and dinner menus, it is incomplete, however, friends and I were unanimous in our approval of the dishes we ordered.

There is an old-school vibe at Balistreri’s Bluemound Inn that took us back to a more genteel era when the world moved at a slower pace. It’s a restaurant where you will be comfortable in your jeans or in your best dress-up date night outfit. It’s also a restaurant that straddles the line between contemporary and classic while serving quintessential Italian food.

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The Rundown

• Location: 6501 W. Bluemound Rd.
• Phone: 414-258-9881
• Hours: Wednesday-Monday 11:00 a.m.-10:00 p.m. Closed Tuesday
• Website: balistreris.com