Part Two at The Hobnob

Historic Route 66 has got nothing on our Highway 32. The south end has nostalgic broken-down storefronts, majestic old mansions and scenic Wisconsin lake views. The Red Arrow Highway runs from the upper Michigan border all the way down to Illinois, and shares a stretch where Sheridan Road starts near the Racine/Kenosha border. The Hobnob, 277 Sheridan Road, Racine, is a timeless supper club where Racine, Kenosha, Milwaukee, and Chicago can all meet for the perfect combination of business and villa-style lounging all in one package.

“We get more of the special occasions, birthdays, anniversaries… In fact tonight we have an 89th birthday,” says Theresa Kamphuis, manager of the Hobnob. “It’s really neat, because they remember us from back in the day when we were opening. Every time I hear a story starting with ‘I remember when…’ they always say it with a smile. And when they bring their kids, and their kids, etc., that’s what it’s all about—to continue the tradition.”

The Hobnob was established in 1954 by the Higgins family, but has been operating under the wing of Michael Aletto and his wife Anne since 1990. Like a true Midwest gem, the restaurant’s casual-upscale atmosphere is non-intimidating (i.e. you’re not going to get kicked out for forgetting to wear your top hat, white tie and tails), however, they have had their share of celebrity guests:

“LeRoy Butler, Charles Woodson, Al Molinaro, Steve Allen…” Kamphuis explains. “We have a book of autographs of people that have come here in the past since the ‘50s. Don Knotts… there’s some other ones. In Racine, they used to publish Golden Books, so Disney was associated with them for quite a while. We ended up with quite a few who would eat here when they were in town.”

The holidays are definitely a unique time of year to visit The Hobnob. They’re known for their extensive holiday decorations, which are just as soundly built as the furnishings.

“That rotating carousel in the middle of the bar is a staple,” says Kamphuis. “That’s been up a good 40-50 years. It amazes me that it’s still going, but you know back then they built things a lot better, too.”

Their décor is fit for royalty (I actually saw the signature of the Prince of Sweden in the guest book from 1957) with its painted murals, chandeliers, tassels, oversized leather booths, original paintings, velvet drapes, elaborate wallpaper, brass candlesticks on every table in the main room and lake-view bar and terrace dining area. The restaurant features several decked-out dining rooms, including a private canopied Moroccan-themed one-table room often reserved for engagements and anniversaries.

My favorite part of the building was the secretive downstairs Monet room and banquet hall with its pastel washed walls, dance floor, and untouched 50s service bar complete with an antique cash register. There was also a small adjacent walk-through room with a built-in velvet chaise lounge and lacquered tables. My mind was racing with thoughts of all the insane things that could have happened there 50 years ago.

“I think what used to go on was that men would come in here from the dining hall to smoke their cigars,” says Kamphuis. “I’ve heard other stories too, but if they’re true I’m not sure.”

It’s worth a trip to Racine just to enjoy an Old Fashioned and admire the lavish details. I haven’t seen anything in Milwaukee that rivals the level of preservation The Hobnob has maintained from the 1950s. If Bryant’s Cocktail Lounge were to quadruple in size and add a kitchen, it might give them a run for their money.

“I locally source my produce; I have a guy who goes down to Chicago and gets it for me every day. I get my meats from Milwaukee from Pritzlaff and Lindsay,” says Hobnob’s Head Chef James Pawicz. “Everything here is homemade, even the desserts, everything is painstaking and cooked fresh in-house; sometimes I get here at 10 or 11 in the morning to prepare for the night’s service. We try to cook everything from scratch.”

Our dinner was excellent, as expected. We ordered a curried duck roll special appetizer to tide us over before the cream-of-mushroom and hot bacon spinach salad courses. We didn’t order steak since it seems as if enough hopeful online food critics have already taken it upon themselves to nitpick and neither of us were in the mood for a filet. The Mahi Mahi en Papillote special and Wiener Schnitzel off the menu were great; appropriately seasoned and thankfully not Wisconsin-portioned so we still had room for dessert.

I was curious as to whether or not there was a high turnover among the restaurant staff, and Theresa assured me pretty quickly: “Oh no…because (the restaurant) is individually owned, there is more of a family concept. I’ve worked here about 19 years. I started shortly after Michael took over. When you know it’s a good fit, you stay with it.”

They also have live entertainment on weekends. “We have a jazz band on Friday night, and a piano player on Saturdays. Lillian has been with us about 18 years. I think she’s about 83, and she doesn’t read a note of music. Requests will come in and she’ll just take it away.”

Donned in a sequined dress a la Milwaukee’s Angelo’s Piano Lounge-style, Lillian approached the Kurzweil near the end of our meal and we listened to her knock out a few Christmas songs over a hand-churned Pink Squirrel and possibly the best Tiramisu I’ve had in my life.

The Hobnob is a true Wisconsin-style supper club. From its classic décor, detailed service, and menu complete with beautifully-prepared steaks and fresh seafood, they don’t need to brag. People who have been there simply know what to expect, and those who haven’t won’t be disappointed. It’s worth the trip for those looking to treat themselves or someone else to a memorable dinner or cocktails with a view.

The Hobnob opens at 5:00 p.m. Thursday-Saturday, and 4:30 p.m. on Sundays. They’re closed Mondays. For more information or to make a reservation, call 262-552-8008.

For Part One of Inside Wisconsin Supper Clubs at Jackson Grill, click here. Follow Lacy Landre on Twitter.