Japanese Donut Shop Opening Downtown

Mochi doughnuts at Mochidon. Photo taken Oct. 3, 2023 by Sophie Bolich.

The city of Milwaukee’s first mochi doughnut purveyor is preparing to open later this month, bringing the crispy, chewy desserts — along with cookies, boba tea and coffee — to East Town.

Mochidon, located inside Paper Table, will host a grand opening on Oct. 22. Its soft opening is already in progress.

Unlike the majority of vendors at the food hall, 733 N. Milwaukee St., Mochidon occupies a kitchen that overlooks the lobby. Glass dividers separate the space from visitors, while allowing passersby to observe the delicate process of shaping, frying and decorating each doughnut.

“Right when they open the door, they already see this,” said chef Noel Rosello, indicating a lineup of perfectly shaped, pastel-frosted rings.

Rosello and Calvin Marquez, managing partner for the business, first opened Mochidon in Las Vegas. The duo are childhood friends, having grown up together in Guam. Rosello has always loved to bake, but said his enthusiasm for mochi doughnuts was partly influenced by the Japanese and Korean culture that was prevalent on the Pacific island where he was born and raised.

“It’s actually a mixture of my favorite cuisines, which is Japanese and a little bit of American fusion,” said Rosello, who tried his first mochi doughnut while visiting Japan.

From there, he started experimenting with his own recipe in his home kitchen. “Every single batch I did, any little change — the amount of sugar, the amount of flour — I took notes,” he said. He racked up 10 trials, then 25, then 50, determined to create the perfect batch.

“I just kept going until I found the final technique,” he said. “It’s really all technique.”

Rosello’s attention to detail comes into focus in the Paper Table kitchen, where he monitors the humidity and keeps bowls of icings, toppings and melted chocolate in designated places to optimize texture and quality.

For each order, he makes a fresh batch of dough, combining glutinous rice flour, a touch of wheat flour and other ingredients in a mixer — careful not to overwork the mixture. “You want it to be a little rough,” he said. That’s because the next step, shaping, will continue to smooth the dough before it’s deposited as a perfectly-formed doughnut into a vat of hot oil.

When the doughnuts are golden brown and crispy on the outside, Rosello prepares his scratch-made toppings. Mochidon’s current lineup includes matcha Oreo, strawberry shortcake, brown butter glaze, chocolate, ube pebbles and pumpkin cinnamon.

Flavors will change seasonally, though Rosello is already more than a year ahead, he said, while scrolling through an enormous list of ideas and inspiration.

Mochidon also serves a rotating lineup of cookies, which are thick, chewy and oversized. Giant chocolate chip and red velvet cookies are served warm, while a strawberry shortcake cookie comes topped with a generous layer of real strawberry frosting and a dash of sprinkles.

Cold drinks including boba, milk tea and cold brew coffee, will also be available as the business ramps up.

Doughnuts are available in boxes of three, six or 12. Orders can be placed online through Paper Table or straight from Mochidon.

Mochidon is open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.

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