An eclectic new lounge opens Downtown

The new Beta by Sabor is certainly a change in format from the Sabor Brazilian Churrascaria that Milwaukee has known, but still presents the same rich and vibrant flavors that one would expect. The new lounge is a “restaurant within a restaurant,” sharing Sabor’s upscale space at 777 N. Water St.

The concept behind Beta is to serve dishes and cocktails that enhance socialization, rather than distract from it. They encourage guests to order their snacks and toasts and jams to share with friends — or even strangers they may meet at the restaurants neighborhood table.

While satisfying the palate, unique dishes serve as a conversation piece for guests as they sip on handcrafted cocktails. From sweet to savory to spicy, their cocktails are made to please a variety of differing tastes, and are a welcome addition to Milwaukee’s growing craft cocktail movement.

Highlights include the Scudetto, an Italian-inspired cocktail consisting of shaken pineapple-infused Plymouth gin, Campari, orange bitters and egg whites. The flavors are layered and complex, yet still refreshing with a frothy, meringue-like top.

The Tomato Daiquiri is a shaken mixture of Appleton Estate V/X rum, fresh lime juice, and their homemade tomato water. It is definitely a savory cocktail meant to be enjoyed along side Beta’s rich, meaty dishes, but could also satisfy the cocktail hour craving for a Bloody Mary.

The Ginger 5 Spice Mojito blends a common kitchen ingredient (Five-spice powder) with a popular summer cocktail – the classic lime and mint-based mojito. While still retaining a strong, spicy flavor, the Ginger 5 Spice Mojito is a great way to cool off on a hot summer day.

Finally, their Caipirinha sorbet is a unique take on the traditional Brazilian cocktail. In their mixer, which uses liquid nitrogen to chill their sorbets and ice creams, the chef combines sugar, water, fresh lime juice, and Cachaça (a liquor made from fermented sugarcane) and blends into a creamy, frozen treat. The end result is a true delight.

As for the snacks they offer, restaurant owner Paul Berlin offers a few words of advice.

“Don’t come with people you don’t like and don’t come if you don’t share well with others.”

The dishes here are meant to be shared. Whether you start off with warm pork rinds or the deviled egg of the week, you are in for a treat. The pork rinds are the perfect combination of salty, spicy and sweet with their hot honey dipping sauce. And the deviled eggs are certainly a high-end take on a classic picnic favorite. Infused with the flavor of exquisite truffles and topped with fried mushrooms, celery leaves and asiago cheese, they are a far cry from mom’s recipe.

Beta offers a large selection of toasts and jams for snacking as well. Some of the highlights include a Tomato Jam that has the sweet flavor of a just-picked cherry tomato, which is balanced by the earthy micro greens the toast is garnished with. Another favorite is the Caramelized Onion and Cheese Brûlée. The sharp bite of the manchego and fontina cheese mixture is mellowed out by the sweetness of the lovely caramelized onions. For the carnivores out there, Beta’s Chicken Liver Pâté certainly has all the meaty flavor you would expect, but with a beautifully light texture and very little gaminess.

Of the cold snacks, I would definitely recommend the Pickle Jar. The presentation alone is stunning with a beautiful mix of fresh vegetables from every color in the rainbow. The pickled flavor is tangy, but rounded out by a nice sweetness. The old fashioned jar that overflows onto the platter consists of fiddlehead ferns, purple cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, carrots, green beans, and mushrooms and is accented by wafer-thin cheese crisps, bacon cubes, and candied jalapenos.

Of the hot snacks, the Savory Waffle and Chicken Thighs is a must. The crunchy coating and moist, tender meat was enough to win me over, but the lightness of the waffle and the flavorful cream sausage gravy sealed the deal.

The Pork Ragu is a perfect example of how the rich flavors of Beta’s dishes just may force you to share them with others. The ragu is made from pork belly, pork shoulder and pork cheek, marinated in Dr. Pepper, orange juice and cola, and duck fat, respectively. Each component came together in pan sauce made of all of the marinades, all atop a bed of fried polenta. The dish was then topped with a few pork rinds and pickled napa cabbage, served beautifully in a cast iron skillet.

Beta by Sabor opens to the public on Friday, July 22. Beta opens at 5 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday, with Happy Hour, dinner, and late night drinks. For more information, click here or call (414) 431-3106.