The turtleneck’s resurgence

Turtlenecks are not just the basic clothing items they used to be. Over the years designers have reconceived the simple design into modern creations that hardly resemble their centuries-old cousin. The one trait that remains constant is the extra folds of fabric around the neck. That’s what defines a turtleneck.

There’s no exact place or time to pinpoint just where or when turtlenecks emerged from, but the style dates all the back to the 15^th Century. It just seemed like a practical garment to wear at the time, no one was out to make a statement.

By 1890, bicyclers in England wore turtlenecks to stay warm. Later on, sailors adopted the look because it was a simple way to stay warm on the decks. During World War II, the turtle neck was accepted as part of the official uniform of the U.S. Navy. Its popularity continued to flourish in civilians’ closets all over the globe.

I am an absolute turtleneck devotee now, but I have not always been a fan. My mom used to make me wear them when it dropped to a certain temperature. I hated the way the extra fabric felt on my neck…all bunchy and tight.

Also, maybe it was the way I wore them – just like a regular shirt. I could get away with it then, but nowadays days if I wore a turtleneck that way it would be a very unforgiving silhouette.

The classic original turtleneck still serves its purpose and always will as a functional piece of clothing. Now designers look beyond function and see all the potential beyond the pattern. They leave the one thing that makes the turtleneck identifiable – the neck – then get rid of other pieces such as the sleeves or the back. The neckline is very simple and very dramatic at the same time.

For women, the turtleneck’s evolution has been very attractive, but for males not so much. I think it started out as stylish way for a man to dress but the look seemed to sputter out. The first man I ever saw wearing one was my dad.  Whenever he and my mom went out to dinner he always wore a corduroy jacket with suede elbow patches, and a turtle neck underneath – the color varied. Even back then I thought he looked really handsome – kind of like a movie star – reminiscent of Burt Reynolds or David Hasselhoff. Now take former Bachelor Jake Pavelka. He’s a serial turtleneck wearer but he ends up looking like he’s either trapped in the ’80s or he’s on his way to steal some jewelry.

For men – some men – function remains the main reason to wear the style. Don’t get me wrong– there are some who can totally pull off this look and if you’re able to do so, go for it. But lately if I see a guy in a turtleneck, he’s cut the sleeves off.  Women can get away with sleeveless turtleneck, guys not so much.

It’s important to remember there are different turtlenecks for different purposes –  like the type you’d wear for layering.  They’re made now so they have a very slim fit and feel like second skin. These are not the kind you want to wear solo. Layering fabrics can be very sheer and are meant to be a fitted piece so it looks better under whatever you’re wearing.

Then we have the types of turtlenecks that can stand alone.  They’re made out of beefier fabrics (thicker cotton, cashmere, blends) for a more substantial shirt. Take for example the classic black cashmere turtleneck sweater.  You can find them in a ton of different fits so it’s a figure flattering, sophisticated, timeless piece. It’s versatile and you might end up wearing it until it falls apart…which probably won’t even happen. My mom owns a couple cashmere turtleneck sweaters that she’s had – and still wears – for almost 10 years.  A good cashmere turtleneck sweater starts at about $100 and goes up from there.

Keep in mind this is not a frivolous purchase or a splurge, it’s an investment piece. Spend less cash on the layers that you’ll be wearing under your clothes. Those are the ones that will need to be replaced every once in awhile.

The turtleneck is one of those significant inventions that will be around forever. It’s cool to see it interpreted in so many different ways. I doubt they’ll ever run out of ideas to keep the evolution of the turtleneck moving forward. Just so long as they don’t try bring the dickie into the mix. That would just be awful.

*Cover photo by RexD via Flickr