Now I’m a believer…
Photos by Kevin C. Groen
Hubbard Park Lodge
3565 N. Morris Blvd.
Milwaukee, WI 53211
414-332-4207
Christopher Taube, now 28, hated high school. (Who didn’t?) He found it just plain BO-RING. (Who didn’t?) But instead of slogging it out like the rest of us, Taube just didn’t go.
But life as a teenage dropout was far from glamorous. Restaurants offered him work – grunt work: shilling for Shoney’s restaurants in a bear suit, cleaning parking lots, dishwashing. These jobs made cooking look real good. And by the age of 15, Taube was doing just that, first for a variety of chain eateries and then as a line cook at Mangia in Kenosha. This taste of fine dining locked this adolescent Taube into a culinary career.
Born in South Bend, Indiana, Taube’s family migrated from the Midwest to the Southwest. He spent his youth in Mesa, Arizona, the oldest of five children. “I had a healthy respect for food passed on by my mother – it was a very big part of us being a family together. I’m the cook of the bunch; no one else had interest in pursuing a career in restaurants and frankly I don’t blame them – you have to have a passion for this business or be crazy to work this many hours and do the things you’ve got to do to be successful, but there are those who could only survive in a kitchen.”
The Taube family table was laden with All-American comfort foods, not to mention a lot of barbecue. Taube’s grandmother, who was from Tennessee and lived down the street, contributed Southern-style specialties like the iron skillet cornbread and beans that had fueled his coal miner grandfather. Says Taube, “I was always partial to sausage gravy – pour it on eggs and even over bacon. I was the designated sausage gravy guy except at grandma’s house.”
Breakfasts were a family project and served as Taube’s training meal. As a kid he was flipping eggs on a flat griddle, learning how to keep the contents in the pan. Still, he considers himself a late bloomer in terms of his fascination with food. “For most of my life, food was a means to an end. Eat it and you’re full. It was not an integral part of my life.”
A precocious and outspoken kid, the dropout was a great student, just not in a traditional educational structure. Learning (literally) by fire worked for him. Working a catering gig for Mangia, a bunch of sternos in a hot box exploded into mushroom clouds of black smoke. “There are pictures of me putting my head through a sheet pan. I never thought aluminum could burn like that!”
Undaunted, Taube attended the Scottsdale Culinary Institute, a Cordon Bleu program associated with the renowned French academy. “I cooked all morning, went to school at night then got up early to open in the morning again.” No complaints, though. While in school and for a year after graduation, Taube worked for Bryan Elliot, Executive Chef/Owner of the Painted Horse Café in Scottsdale. Elliot had cooked for the super-rich and famous on virtually every continent, including a meal for Margaret Thatcher. The master chef took the inchoate Taube under his wing, instructing him in the art of haute cuisine with Sonoran accents. To wit: eggs Benedict with chorizo and chipotle hollandaise; butter-poached lobster tail with vanilla citrus emulsion and Peruvian purple potatoes and rendered Muscovy duck breast with kumquat marmalade. Olé!
“Give me one meal and I’ll make you a believer,” he dares. With this foodie, he’s more than met that challenge. VS
