New York Fashion Week 2013, behind the scenes

New York Fashion Week is always a whirlwind. This season was no different.

I am lucky enough to have turned my teenage photo hobby and love for fashion into a freelance photography career in Chicago, Milwaukee and New York. This was my second round photographing backstage, runway and presentation at Fashion Week. Last season, I shot for Sally LaPointe and Tibi and I was very excited to be able to go back this season. It’s really amazing to see final looks come together – it’s a crazy transformation from the models coming in at call time, the flurry of hair and make-up artists around them, to seeing the look come down the runway. I love it.

After getting three hours of sleep, I rushed to an early morning flight out of Milwaukee, landed at LaGuardia, and (vanilla latte in hand), cabbed it straight to Pier 59 for the first show of Fall/Winter 2013.

I checked into a small presentation studio in Chelsea, packed wall to wall with black-clad teams of artists swarming around exotic mile-tall models clad in the designs of Marcia Patmos. To the side was a beautifully lit stage with sloped corners painted crisp white from floor to ceiling; a sharp contrast to the dark mass of flustered people just a few feet away. The Rowenta Beauty team had painstakingly styled sleek, pin-straight hair while Shisedo makeup artists created crisp, dewy faces to accompany Patmos’ textured, “stolen from the boys” looks.

Her line was phenomenal, and one of the standout ready-to-wear shows for me this season. Inspired by the idea of an “aristocratic nomad,” Patmos managed to mix together digitized camo prints, knit beanies, military-esque coats and leather accents in a ladylike and graceful fashion.

The snowstorm slowed NYFW down a little bit, but these fashionistas are a determined bunch. Running through the leftover blizzard slush on my way to Rafael Cennamo at Lincoln Center, I was surprised how many women were still willing to wear designer stilettos.

Cennamo created incredibly elaborate evening looks with a dark twist. Models had slick low buns with theatrical eyes and lips – done by Rowenta and Aveda, respectively. The presentation itself was an ethereal, breathing work of art that may as well have been an installation at MoMA. I was frankly stunned. The gown collection was entirely black and gold accented with knits and mechanical gears.

The Fall/Winter 2013 season is all about the unexpected mix. Gold tones and menswear-gone-feminine were just about everywhere. And black leather. A lot of it. Another fantastic ready-to-wear line to look out for is Ostwald Helgason. Susanne Ostwald and Ingvar Helgason focused on elaborate print, knits, and more gold brocade. I’m all over these charming trends.

Oh, NYFW. I think I’m permanently hopped up on caffeine and adrenaline because of you. Below is a glimpse of the Marcia Patmos and Rafael Cennamo backstage circus and final looks.

[All photos © AJ Trela 2013]