Mom’s sweet comforts

Food has always been a human fascination that far surpasses its integral role in survival. We love things that taste good; we crave the flavors that remind us of our childhood, that excite us and that make taking nourishment an experience beyond simple sustenance.

Some of us enjoy expanding our palates at a trusted bistro. For others, the sampling of new flavors invites us to recreate the experience in our own kitchens. In this new VITAL column, we’re pairing recipes from area gastronomic gurus with those of community contributors who just love to cook. All are here for your enjoyment, and for you to try at home.

We hope these recipes will open up fresh and fabulous culinary territory for you, while introducing local resources for high quality and inventive foods and beverages.

This month we celebrate Mother’s Day with two recipes that embody the spirit of Mom’s kitchen magic. The first is an elegant spin on an old chestnut by Chef Cristopher Taube of the Milwaukee Chop House; the second is one of my own mother’s favorite cakes that’s easy and delicious.
Photo by Kevin Groen
Chef Christopher Taube’s Grilled Peach Melba
Milwaukee Chop House
633 N. 5th Street
Milwaukee
414-226-CHOP
milwaukeechophouse.com

This dessert, first created in the late 19th century, was seminal French chef Auguste Escoffier’s panegyric to his favorite opera singer, Dame Nellie Melba. The original was made with vanilla ice cream and fresh peaches with a raspberry sauce. La Melba, who worried about the effect of cold ice cream on her valued vocal chords, would appreciate the unfrozen mascarpone substitution in Chef Taube’s luscious version.

For the whipped mascarpone:
½ c mascarpone cheese
¼ c crème fraiche (or sour cream)
1 T honey
2 T granulated sugar

In a mixing bowl with a wire whip, combine the crème fraiche, sugar and honey. A little at a time, add the mascarpone cheese, incorporating well after each addition. Cover and refrigerate until needed.

For the Apple brandy gastrique:
¼ c cider vinegar
¼ c apple brandy
¼ c granulated sugar
1 T unsalted butter

Combine vinegar and sugar in a small saucepot and bring to a boil, reducing until just before the caramel stage. Add the apple brandy. Continue cooking until reduced by half and remove from fire. Whisk in butter and hold warm.

For Grilled Peaches and to Assemble:
1 fresh peach, halved
¼ c apple brandy gastrique
¾ c whipped mascarpone

Place peaches on the grill over moderate heat and cook until tender, turning often. (You may sauté the peach halves in a small amount of butter in a saucepan instead.) Remove from the grill and cut halves into quarters. Lay two quarters on a plate in an X. Top with mascarpone mixture and drizzle generously with apple brandy gastrique.

Mary Miller’s Apple Walnut Cake
(Adapted from Cate Miller’s book, The Gutless Gourmet)

My mother took great pride in her cooking and this cake was one of her triumphs because it’s simple, sensational and so moist it lasts for a week in the fridge if not gobbled up sooner!

4 c coarsely chopped, peeled Granny Smith apples
2 c sugar
2 eggs
½ c vegetable oil
2 t vanilla
2 c flour, sifted
2 t baking soda
2 t cinnamon
1 t salt
1 ½ c chopped, toasted walnuts*

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine apples and sugar and let stand. Beat eggs slightly, then beat in oil and vanilla. Sift and mix flour, soda, cinnamon and salt. Combine wet and dry ingredients. Stir in apples and walnuts. Spread dough out in a 13x9x2 inch pan and bake one hour.

*To toast walnuts: Spread shelled nuts in a single layer in a shallow pan. Heat in a slow oven at 275 degrees, for 25 to 30 minutes.

Fresh Lemon Frosting

4 T butter
3 c confectioner’s sugar
2 T fresh lemon juice
2 T water
Dash salt

Cream together butter and sugar. Beat in lemon juice and salt. Add water as needed to reach spreading consistency. Wait until cake is thoroughly cooled before frosting.